Sophie Farrah heads to the Cotswolds for a gastronomic staycation inspired by nature...
They say that good things come to those who wait....
If you missed out on a staycation in the summer scrum, the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness, and winter in all its crisp and cosy glory, provides an ideal opportunity for a restorative break, and I’ve found the perfect spot for a gastronomic getaway that is truly inspired by the seasons.
Thyme is described as a ‘village within a village’ and it is just that. Tucked away in the chocolate box Cotswolds village of Southrop - a picturesque hop, skip and a jump from the Big Smoke – Thyme is the product of one family’s passion for nature, food, and all that is good in life.
It is a smattering of historic, honey-hued Cotswold buildings, lovingly restored and revived by founder and creative director Caryn Hibbert. Opened in 2014, they now contain 32 beautiful bedrooms and a handful of cottages, a stunning restaurant, serene spa, swimming pool and more, but all these bells and whistles play second fiddle to the real star of Thyme’s show; Mother Nature herself, and at its heart is the nineteenth-century Ox Barn restaurant, the former home of the oxen that once ploughed local fields.
Thyme is the product of one family’s passion for nature, food, and all that is good in life
Chef Charlie Hibbert has been at the culinary helm since 2018. Yes, this is his family home but no, it is not a case of nepotism that has brought him here; having trained with the great Darina Allen (at Ballymaloe in East Cork) and the inimitable Jeremy Lee (at Quo Vadis in Soho), Hibbert has some serious skill, but mostly it is his palpable passion for the land that makes his food just so enjoyable.
The 62-seater Ox Barn restaurant is a stunning example of agricultural architecture, where old and new combine in stylish harmony. It’s a large, open plan space, but a roaring fireplace and open kitchen ensure that it feels cosy and atmospheric.
The menu is modern, seasonal and British and completely led by Thyme's farm and bountiful herb and vegetable gardens. Dishes are creative but not overly so; sat amongst an abundance of freshly cut flowers, we nibbled on pea, mint and ricotta crostini and flavour-filled marinated peppers with capers and anchovies.
I thought I had died and gone to heaven via the tomato tonnato, and the pave (French for paving stones, in this case made from potato) with girolles, runner beans and goat’s curd was deeply satisfying; a delicious, clever medley of fresh flavours and textures. For pudding, a nostalgia-inducing Coupe Denmark; essentially a sophisticated sundae, made with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and dark molten chocolate. Wonderfully simple, but oh so deliciously effective.
a stunning example of agricultural architecture, where old and new combine in stylish harmony
After dinner, we sat outside by a sleek polished stone fire bowl and gazed at the stars with a rather aptly named cocktail, ‘Take Thyme’ – a delicious mixture of Sapling vodka (a premium British vodka brand that plants a tree for every bottle bought), Lillet Blanc, plum sake and fresh thyme. Heaven.
Aside from his obvious skill, the secret to Hibbert’s success also lies in his careful choice of the very best ingredients; obviously there is the array of fresh seasonal produce from the Thyme kitchen gardens, herb beds, orchards and farm to play with, but he also wields the delicious delights of Neal’s Yard Dairy, SaltPig Curing, Wright Brothers and more.
Sustainable fish, grass-fed meat and British-produced cheese feature heavily, but vegetarians and vegans would be equally delighted. Several impressive sustainability boxes are ticked too; prep and plate waste is sent for anaerobic digestion where it is converted into fertiliser, and for the past four years Thyme has maintained the highest rating of 3 stars with The Sustainable Restaurant Association. It is also a member of The Slow Food Movement, and supporters of the Free Range Dairy Pasture Promise campaign.
Breakfast is another gastronomic affair; yes, there is homemade granola, freshly baked pastries and eggs however you like them, but there is also the likes of grilled courgettes with goat’s curd, fried egg and lardo...
After you’ve feasted on nature’s bounty, you can explore the grounds (smart bicycles, wellies and beautifully illustrated maps are provided), play tennis or swim in the state-of-the-art spring water swimming pool. There’s also the serene Meadow Spa and a boutique shop stocked with all manner of beautiful things.
Alternatively, you could just head to the Baa bar – named after its now iconic ‘sheep seats’ – for another delicious cocktail made with homemade cordials, shrubs and infusions, garnished with fresh flowers and herbs from the garden.
The team are beyond charming – helpful, professional, knowledgeable and happy to facilitate you to do as much or as little as you please; Thyme has created completely beautiful environments for doing both. Whatever you do, take your time (or should I say, thyme?) – slow down and enjoy every marvellous mouthful and magical moment that this nature-filled spot has to offer.
For more information about Thyme, visit their website.
Rooms start at £285 midweek.
