Review - Coworth Park
The feeling that nothing is too much trouble was palpable from the moment we pulled outside Coworth Park. The car and bags were whisked away, and we glided into the handsome mansion building without a care in the world.
Part of the prestigious Dorchester Collection (which owns the likes of The Dorchester in London, Le Meurice in Paris, The Beverley Hills Hotel, and more), Coworth Park is a stunning country house hotel tucked away in Berkshire countryside near Ascot.
Well-known for its country pursuits, it’s home to an impressive equestrian centre and is considered one of the world’s top destinations for polo, no less. There’s clay shooting and falconry to enjoy, fish and swan-filled lakes to stroll around, tennis to be played, and acres upon acres (240 in total) of pristine parkland to explore. Our plans, however, were a little less energetic, because if it’s a restorative winter break that you’re craving, Coworth Park ticks all the boxes.
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The lobby alone is a cosy, seasonal ode to the natural world; when we visited, a beautiful display of tumbling autumnal flowers and fruits took centre stage as a fire gently flickered in one of the several cosy and elegant lounges. Outside, a large, heated terrace comes fully equipped with twinkling fairy lights, comfortable seats, and luxurious blankets, with views over the pretty gardens and croquet lawn.
We were greeted by the lovely Benjamin and general manager, Zoe, who welcomed us warmly and gave us a quick tour of the beautiful building. Dating back to 1776, over the years it has played host to rock and roll royalty, real-life royalty, and a roster of famous actors who not only holiday here but use it as a base when filming at the nearby Shepperton Studios.
Throughout the hotel, interiors are sumptuous and glamourous but not flashy, instead it is understated and elegant. The serene and sophisticated colour scheme is a pleasing palate of muted tones. Artwork is mostly horse and/or nature related - I particularly loved the lobby’s towering bronze sculpture, cast from a real tree.
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Suite dreams
There are 70 beautiful bedrooms, some dotted around the grounds in former stable buildings and others nestled within the glamorous mansion house itself. We were lucky enough to check in to the Arbuthnot Suite (which comes with the option of adding a second adjoining bedroom), and ‘wow factor’ doesn’t even begin to cover it.
At a whopping 124m²/1,332ft², this jaw-dropping space comprises a vast bedroom, spacious living room, dining area and bar, walk-in wardrobe and a stunning marble bathroom, complete with decorative iron bullrushes and a vast copper tub (every bathroom at Coworth Park has one).
Staggering both in size and beauty, the suite’s huge windows look out over the statue-studded grounds and countryside beyond and flood the suite with natural light. The vast Vi-Spring super king bed is a stunning four-poster of wrought iron in the shape of tree branches and birds, with a chic bedroom bench providing a pop of bright Coworth Park orange at its foot. Delicate fabric wallpapers and luxurious curtains add softness, double doors throughout add a glorious sense of grandeur, and in the living room lies the ultimate luxury of all - a working fireplace.
The spa
Tearing ourselves away from the wonders of our room, we strolled over to the hotel’s award-winning spa to warm up in the steam room before doing a few laps of the beautifully illuminated pool (complete with underwater music), overlooked by fifteen large hunks of amethyst crystal that twinkled in the cosy half-light of the cocoon-like space. It had started to rain so a golf buggy was called to collect us, naturally.
Back at our suite, the copper bath was put to good use, filled with the aromatic bubbles provided. The curtains had been drawn, and the fire had been lit, transforming the bright and elegant suite into a sumptuous, cosy hideaway. Wrapped in fluffy robes, we sipped on a glass of Veuve Clicquot by the fire, accompanied by some devilishly delicious camembert popcorn hand-delivered by the impossibly speedy room service.
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Haydon Perrior
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Robert Rieger
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Mark Bolton Photography
Coworth Park Hotel, summer 2022
The food
Food at Coworth Park is taken just as seriously as its sensational suites; there’s a bountiful afternoon tea on offer, and when it comes to lunch or dinner you can choose from The Barn - a relaxed and rustic brasserie-style experience housed within the original barn frame on the grounds, or Woven – chef Adam Smith’s all-singing, all-dancing, one Michelin-starred affair, located within the mansion house itself. We opted for the latter, and it was exceptional.
Firstly, it is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful restaurants I have ever had the pleasure of eating in. One enters through a light, bright and informal larder-like space. Here, a chef is busy tweezering caviar onto picture-perfect canapés, surrounded by two towering glass-walled wine rooms and a walk-in ‘pantry’ space containing all manner of fresh fruit and vegetables, shiny loaves of freshly baked bread, jars of pickles and one of the finest cheese selections I have ever seen.
Created in 2022 and inspired by autumn, stepping into the dining room is like entering a staggeringly chic woodland burrow. It radiates a warm, golden glow that is immediately cosy but simultaneously modern. Tables (made from recycled paper) are a sleek inky black, with clever, height-adjustable lampshades dangling overhead. Screens made from golden string and plush burnt orange fabrics create a sense of intimacy and luxurious comfort, and at the centre of each table, a tactile ceramic conker holds court.
The menu – a mouth-watering a la carte offering – is filled with dishes inspired by classic flavours and techniques, presented in fresh, creative, and contemporary ways. There are stories peppered throughout – some printed and others enthusiastically delivered by the expert waiting staff - covering topics ranging from Coworth Park’s resident bees to Smith’s memories of childhood holidays by the sea. It’s all incredibly thoughtful, immersive, and beautifully executed.
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A variety of picture-perfect snacks arrived on pleasing ceramic pebbles and podiums – a beautiful mouthful of the final summer tomatoes, bursting with sweet flavour; a long, pointed metal spoon topped with an immaculate mound of shiny green avocado mousse, with hints of basil and yuzu, topped with crispy quinoa and silky caviar.
A memorable smoked jellied Devon eel soup came next – packed with deep, rich flavour but silky smooth and featherlight, swirling with bright green parsley oil, small purple flowers, and flecks of gold leaf that twinkled in the milky-white liquid.
Woven’s famous bread course then arrived to the table – a wooden bowl brimming with carb-heavy hedonism and a variety of favoured butters and oils, including a rich, deep orange lobster oil with a dollop of tart cherry molasses in it and a walnut whip-shaped tower of the most delicious, sweet, salty, creamy brown butter.
The Cornish crab starter was sublime – a pile of sweet white crab meat, pear and bergamot all amplified by beautifully aromatic and perfectly balanced Thai flavours. Mains were the epitome of delicious decadence; a chunk of soft turbot sat on a warm mushroom mousse and a rich lobster and truffle mousse, swimming in a foamy lobster, truffle and champagne sauce, all deliciously cut through by pops of salted grapes and the freshness of salsify. On top of the fish was a chunky lobster medallion topped with Oscietra caviar. Yum.
To finish - a magnificent cheese selection, followed by the picture-perfect ‘Signature Chocolate’ and ‘Citrus’ desserts – the latter, a mouth-watering combination of silky Swiss meringue, yuzu curd and yoghurt parfait, bitter lemon marmalade and yoghurt and lime sorbet. The petit fours were also a masterclass in precision: a divine plum tart, a moist canalé bursting with mango, and a melt-in-the-mouth chocolate truffle filled with smooth macadamia nut and oabika - a rich cocoa fruit juice concentrate, made from the cocoa pod’s white pulp.
Back in our room, the fairytale-esque bed had been prepared, water was waiting on the bedside tables, and slippers had been laid out. Talk about luxury...
Niall Clutton
Final thoughts
Breakfast the following morning was another splendid affair: fresh juices and perfect pastries alongside more modern options like a delicious acai bowl topped with thinly sliced banana, cacao nibs, and various cooked options. There was time for a quick stroll around the pretty sunken garden before it was time to depart.
From the sumptuous suite and serene spa to the accomplished food and luxurious touches, our stay was a truly five-star experience, but for me, the impeccable service was what made the greatest impression. Despite the level of quality on offer, there was no hint of stuffiness, just warmth, efficiency and attention to detail.
As our car was brought around, we were furnished with bottles of water and fond farewells, our luggage already neatly packed in the boot, as if by magic. Just as when we arrived - at Coworth Park, nothing really is too much trouble.
Rooms (Stable Superior) start at £595 per night B&B. The Arbuthnot Suite starts at £1,785 per night (room only).
