Rugby players have their own particular challenges in choosing the right suit. Stylist to the stars Pip Mills shares her tips for the bulkier bod
If your physique is more rugby player than slim jim, finding a well-fitting suit can often be a bigger battle than the ones fought on the pitch. When it comes to off-the-peg choices, options are often exasperatingly limited for those with a muscular or bulky build.
Fortunately for the England rugby team, Eden Park have taken up their sartorial needs. Established by ex-French international Franck Mesnel who knows only too well the fashion challenges of large thighs and broad shoulders, Eden Park have been decking out the national side since 2011.
Founded in 1987, the company is named after the stadium in New Zealand in which France lost the first rugby union World Cup final. With such a pedigree, it’s not surprising that Eden Park’s Paris-based designers have turned tailoring for the rugby bod into a fine art, creating suits for a squad of 60 in just over a week.
Having witnessed the evolution of the modern rugby player’s body shape over recent years, they are experts at working with a V-shape body and incorporate basic design rules, such as extending suit shoulders and arms by 5cm.
Those in the fashion fastlane may favour the double-breasted Italian Riviera style with tapered legs but alas, this look is not the rugby player’s friend. Likewise, slim fit suits and shirts – even if you can squeeze into them, they are not going to flatter you.
Forget trends I say, the key to looking sharp and slick is the right fit. For big thighs and calves, that means a straight leg trouser with the fabric tapered in towards the ankle. The trouser leg should break on the second or third eyelet of the shoe.
Remember where your waist is and don’t let your trouser waistband sit on your hips – this is no skater boy look. You should be able to wear trousers without a belt.
You’ll no doubt be familiar with the frustration with brands that only offer matching suits – either the jacket or trouser fits perfectly, but rarely both.
In this case, make use of an alterations service. It is amazing what they can do. If it is no more than an inch that needs to be adjusted, ask the service to take in your waist or, take in the seams down the side of your jacket.
When a fit is too tight, beware of the rippling effect in the cloth across your shoulder blades or across the top of arms or stomach.
Conversely, it’s also important that your suit does not hang off you. It must create shape and the jacket should skim your body, otherwise it will make you look bulkier. Never go a size down and hope for the best.
If you have slim arms and legs, often a heavier cloth hangs better and gives a more structured shape.
If you’re in need of more than a slight alteration, find a brand that offers a made-to-measure service as a compromise between off-the-peg and full bespoke tailoring. Try Aquascutum, Reiss, and Cad and The Dandy.
Care is required when altering trouser length. The most important rule is to always wear your own shoes at the fitting.
Look for a slight crease at the front of the ankle and check that the back of the trouser reaches the point where the brim of the sole of your shoe meets the leather.
Shirts can be a struggle. Those that do a lot of gym training often find that as their neck, biceps, shoulder and chest measurements increase, their waist size goes down.
Classic fit shirts are a no-no for a highly-toned torso, leaving you with far too much fabric around your waist. Instead, try shirts with a little stretch in the fabric to fit the upper body more comfortably.
Thomas Pink has adopted an ‘athletic fit’ specially for gym bods. Ask advisors in store or consider having some made-to-measure shirts made. I promise you, it’s a worthwhile investment. Try M&S and Hugh & Crye or for something special try Emma Willis or any Saville Row tailor.
A good tailor will even take into account the watch you wear, so you don’t get that awkward moment when your brand new Philippe Patek doesn’t fit inside the cuff of your shirt.
With that, good luck gentleman!
Got sartorial woes? Need a bit of help in the fashion department? Stylist to the stars Pip Mills headed up personal shopping and accessories for several leading luxury London retailers including Liberty and Harrods, and now offers wardrobe management services for both men and women. You can also follow her fashion advice on Twitter
Find out more about England Rugby's actual playing shirts with Fiona Adams