Not first past the post but the Running Horses in Mickleham still goes the distance, says Catherine Whyte
Nigel Chapman
There’s nothing like a day out in the fresh air to work up an appetite. So, after a session shooting clays at the National Clay Shooting Centre at Bisley, The Big Man and I travelled cross county to sample chef Adam Turley’s new menu at the Running Horses in Mickleham.
Located ‘off the beaten track’ (as it were) on the Old London Road, it’s an easy pub to miss. In fact, I had never been inside before myself.
What a friendly place it is. They have so many dog walkers and cyclists ‘pop in’ that there’s a permanent supply of fresh water at the bar. The lovely bar lady greeted us like old friends.
It was a glorious day so we didn’t quite feel ready to squirrel ourselves away in the dining room, so sat outside with a Moretti lager watching the world – consisting of numerous 465 buses and lots of cyclists – go by.
Eventually though, hunger compelled us inside. The wood paneled dining room with its tartan carpets and smoking room vibe was just like the Victorian environs of Bisley, so there was an unexpected synergy to the day. I was also happy to be sitting in one of the cosy booths.
Chef Adam Turley has arrived at the Running Horses from The Bull Hotel in Kent, but has had previous stints at The Waterside Inn in Bray and – more recently – Bluebells Restaurant and Bar in Sunningdale where he was head chef and was awarded his first AA Rosette in 2009.
We forewent a starter (we thought we’d leave room for puddings instead) but to tide us over the waitress kindly brought over an antipasti plate with a selection of breads from Celebration Cakes in Cranleigh (just one of the local suppliers used – the others being sausages from Ye Village Butcher from Walton on the Hill and cheese from Norbury Park Farm).
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Nigel Chapman
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Nigel Chapman
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The mains duly arrived. The Big Man’s Fillet of Pork was a stack of shapes; a twirl of crackling, a triangle of black pudding, a roundel of pork fillet, segments of roasted apple finished off with gravy and a sprinkling of green leaves and broad beans for colour. A good solid plate of food, with a dash of flare. He was happy. The thyme-roasted carrot side order was good, too.
Unfortunately, my vegetable tart was less inspiring; just some vegetables in pastry – which had subsided under the watery weight of the tomato – with some rocket leaves and a drizzle of dressing plonked on top. Where was the sauce? Where were the herbs? Where was the flavour? So disappointing. Why do chefs find it so hard to come up with decent meat-free dishes? The other vegetarian choices on the menu were risotto (yawn) and heritage beetroot and goat’s cheese starter. If I had a fiver for every time I’ve seen either of these dishes on a menu, I’d be a rich woman.
So, if you want my advice stick with the meat and fish dishes, which to be fair to Adam did look good. There were plenty of people dining (we went on a Tuesday) so that’s a positive sign.
Prices are about average, with mains ranging from £12.50 to £26 (for a Beef Wellington), and desserts costing around £6 each. We had left room for pudding on purpose having been tempted by the Neatened Mess (essentially a deconstructed Eton Mess) and Chocolate Brownie with toffee popcorn ice cream.
On balance, it’s a good local to have on your doorstep and worth popping in for a bite of you are in the area: not first past the post by any means, but The Running Horses certainly goes the distance.
- To book a table or look at the menu go to: therunninghorses.co.uk
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