4 STARS. Catherine Whyte enjoys a fabulous fusion of old and new at Taiji Maruyama's cutting edge Japanese Grill situated right in the heart of Lord Beaverbrook's former stately home
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The Terrace
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The Parrot Bar
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Winston Churchill's bath!
What do Winston Churchill, Ian Fleming and Elizabeth Taylor have in common? They were all regular visitors to Cherkley Court, beloved home of former media magnate Lord Beaverbrook.
Thankfully for us lesser mortals, this palatial pad has just opened to the public as a luxury hotel, Beaverbrook – also home to Surrey’s first ever high-end Japanese restaurant.
Yet, it’s simply impossible to tuck into my grand spiel about the restaurant without first mentioning The House – as this latest phase in the estate’s regeneration is known.
From my seat on the vast terrace – with its spectacular views across a velvety green tablecloth of hills and trees – it’s not hard to understand why so many famous figures holidayed here. It’s so secluded and oh-so-quiet.
As I sip my pre-lunch dry martini, I’m aware that the odd plane passing way overhead is the only obvious visual indication of 21st Century life.
Frankly, it’s divine – like taking a step back to a bygone age of glamour and sophistication.
History is at your beck and call here at Beaverbrook. It’s so close you can physically touch it. Stay at the hotel and you can relax in Lord Beaverbrook’s paneled library or enjoy a film in the utterly gorgeous original art deco cinema. The bathtub, sink (and toilet) in Winston Churchill’s old room is still intact, as is Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton’s specially-built double shower. The choice is yours.
But, I am here to review The Dining Room Japanese Grill – the latest haute cuisine addition to the blossoming offering south of the M25 – led by chef Taiji Maruyama, a third-generation sushi chef and co-founder of Chelsea’s KIRU. He’s also worked at world-renowned Nobu.
As expected, the food was delightful: inventive, delicate, gorgeous to look at and a proper taste adventure. After all, where else in Surrey are you going to eat suzuki (sea bass) nigiri with crunchy ants? Or, toro (fatty tuna) with fresh summer truffles. It’s an outstanding menu.
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However, I was not expecting to be served such cutting-edge cuisine in a room that looked like it belonged to my grandmother. All that innovative, exciting food nearly drowned out in an interference of floral fabrics, gilded cornices and geometric wallpaper. Shibui, anyone?
Moving swiftly on, let me tell you that our choices from the sushi, sashimi and nigari menus were our visual and gustatory highlights. The Dragon Rolls (£13.50) were dazzling to look at with their punky zesty dressing. (Sushi et al is priced from £2.50 a piece, or choose one of the selections, which start at £20)
The vegetable tempura (£10) was as good as you’ll eat outside Japan, served with a superbly light dashi with grated daikon. There was even a fried shiso leaf – grown in Beaverbrook’s own kitchen garden. It was also a delight to eat homemade gari (ginger pickle) and fresh (yes, fresh!) wasabi.
Every dish brought a smile to the face. My nasu dengaku starter (£8) – aubergine with a yellow miso glaze – was earthy, tangy and sweet. The Japanese Tacos – avocado and hot miso in a taco-shaped sheet of nori – were a playful take on the Mexican staple (prices from £3.50).
Naturally, there are also more traditional main dishes from the Josper Grill to choose from. Our grilled lamb cutlets with sweet onion, sesame, soy and chilli came under a glass cloche for a great piece of table theatre (£15). Some other tasty highlights include: charcoal half grilled lobster (£35), grilled Japanese wagyu (£52) and grilled Loch Duart salmon (£20.50).
One final point to note: you must make a reservation to eat at Beaverbrook. You can’t just rock up to the estate unannounced. The House is also open for breakfast, afternoon tea (£35 per person), lunch and dinner. You can also take cocktails in the Parrot Bar, or book a room for private parties.
Itadakimasu.
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