Review: Prince of Wales, Esher

Prince of Wales in Esher - worth a visit

Esher has been crying out for a gastro pub for years. Yes, there’s Jose Pizarro performing his Spanish magic at The Swan in nearby Claygate and The Wheatsheaf serving up reliably decent post-work dinners, but a real pub where you can tuck into a Sunday roast with the family after a dog walk in the woods? Somewhere spacy and relaxed to celebrate family birthday without feeling like you’re sitting on top of other diners? Not so much. So the news of a £2 million refurbishment of West End’s 140-year old Prince of Wales generated plenty of support and excitement amongst locals.

We visited on a Friday evening in early February, two months after it first opened and boy, are they still supporting it. Every table is booked, the bar is full of Friday drinkers enjoying the 5-7pm sweet spot, and families already tucking into dinner in the various nooks and crannies. There are even drinkers sitting on the outside terrace, enjoying the heat lamps, rugs and February drizzle.

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First impressions

The new contemporary design is superb: bold wallpaper flourishes, plenty of sheepskin throws and lots of different eating areas, including a dining room with comfy high-backed booths, a light-filled orangery, a semi-private dining suite and a lovely warm and cosy fireside snug, all flowing smoothly around the centrepiece green lava-stone bar. Even the log-filled ‘porch’ at the back of the pub, is beautifully ‘zen’ with padded benches, throws, lanterns and cushions.   

We’re seated in the orangery, where smaller tables fan out from a central circular banquette, good for people watching, but a little too airport-lounge like for intimate dining. Big groups would fare better in here, with lots of space between the tables and floor to ceiling windows.

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The menu

The menu is all about social eating – with an array of ‘stix’, tapas size dishes such as chilli and lime prawns, padron pepper and crispy pork bites & apple caramel, all for under £6. There are sharing plates too of hot camembert baked and focaccia and a meaty ploughmans with sausages, black treacle ham hock, belly bites, pickled red cabbage, beetroot piccalilli & sausage roll.

We start with pink peppercorn squid, chive aioli (£7) and broccoli bhaji, cucumber, garlic & turmeric coconut yoghurt (£7.50). The squid is disappointing, the batter is floury and lacking crunch. The bhaji is tasty, but is overwhelmed by too much turmeric yoghurt.

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The mains are much better

The 9oz featherblade steak is full of flavour and nicely cooked. Served with chunky chips, a choice of peppercorn & brandy, chimichurri or lemon & roast garlic butter, it’s excellent value at £20. The fish pie (£18.50) with a herb crumb crust, could do with more fish per serving, but is well presented and sizzling hot.

There’s also a brunch menu with a full English, bacon sarnies and some interesting alternatives: ham, cheddar & caramelised red onion bread & butter (£10), pomegranate and tahini breakfast bowl (£8) and pancakes and maple syrup (£9-12).

The main attraction for many here will be the Sunday roast menu

With nearly 900 acres of Esher Commons on the doorstep, this is the perfect spot to roll up after a bracing walk. Sunday tables fill up quickly. There are three roasts on the menu – rump beef, pork belly and chicken – and a veggie haggis Wellington, all served roast potatoes, Yorkshire pudding,  rainbow roots & seasonal greens and priced between £17-22. It’s good to see smaller portions for kids too, priced at £8.   

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Final thoughts

When we pop in for a second visit late on a Sunday morning, the welly and dog crowd are already settling in and the tantalising smell of roasties beckons. Definitely worth a visit!

Book online at theprinceofwales-westend.co.uk.