Gordon Ramsay’s Battersea brasserie has a new look and a new menu this month. Sophie Farrah talks to George Lyon, Head Chef of London House, about monkfish, mussels and his infamous boss
A children’s menu? Casual dress code? Dogs welcome?! This doesn’t sound like any Gordon Ramsay restaurant that I have ever encountered – and I like it. London House in Battersea has most definitely loosened its tie.
To mark its second birthday, the classic neighbourhood brasserie has had a makeover. Relaxed dining room; cosy, leather sofa-filled bar (complete with fireplace and the Sunday papers); leafy courtyard garden perfect for summer cocktails: a new informal look has arrived.
And then there’s the impressive new Head Chef. Fresh from The Savoy, no less, 25-year-old George Lyon from Barnsley, South Yorkshire, is the youngest head chef in the entire Gordon Ramsay Group.
“When I came to London, aged 19, I had a five-year plan to be a sous chef, so that got smashed out of the window!” he laughs.
A kitchen porter at 14, George landed his big break in 2000 when The Savoy gave him a trial. He passed, then worked his way up through the ranks of some of London’s top restaurants – including the critically acclaimed Maze in Mayfair – before returning to The Savoy and, finally, joining London House at its inception.
“I started with Anna (Haugh, former Head Chef), who was a great mentor and taught me a lot. To be a head chef takes a lot of desire, passion and good management skills, not just being able to cook!”
But what is life really like in one of Gordon Ramsay’s kitchens? In my mind’s eye, I picture him red-faced, stressed, shouting, using language that would make my mother blush. Or faint.
Not so, says George.
“No one would want to work for him if he was like that! I know he does a lot of all that on the TV, but in reality he has an amazing character. He’s very extroverted in the kitchen though – there’s definitely a presence when he’s in. He’s a hands-on boss and very hard-working.
“Two years ago I actually cooked Christmas dinner at his house, for him and the Beckhams, so I got to know him a bit then. He made me sing karaoke, which was very funny. I was quite nervous on the day, so I think he was trying to help me out!”
Despite his nerves George obviously managed to impress, as he has been at the helm of London House since March. He describes his versatile new menu as “seasonal, modern British with a few twists” and, like many good chefs, he is passionate about produce.
“My favourite dish at the moment is roasted monkfish with mussel laksa and charred tenderstem broccoli. The mussels are Cornish – big and juicy and bursting out of their shells. They’re great!
“Of course, at this time of year it’s all about Wye Valley asparagus, and I’ve got some heritage tomatoes coming through from the Isle of Wight which are going to be amazing. And black garlic. Lots of black garlic!”
Stomach rumbling, I bid farewell. Later though, a glance at the website tells me all about ‘Wine Wednesdays’ – a chance to buy wine at retail price – ‘kids eat free’ deals and affordable set lunches, plus indulgent weekend brunches with bottomless (yes, bottomless) Prosecco for just £15.
Tempting stuff. Me? I’m just relishing the chance to sample the fine fare of this humble, passionate and incredibly talented young head chef.
For the full menu and booking go to gordonramsayrestaurants.com/london-house
You can check out more of our local food and drink news here, like our guide on what wines to take on a summer picnic
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London House Battersea
7-9 Battersea Square, City of London, SW11 3RA
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