Why head to overcrowded beaches and battle for sun loungers, says Deana Luchia, when Zürich offers everything you need for a refreshing summer break?
Temperatures may be soaring across Europe, but I am cool, calm and refreshed as I tread water in Zürich’s currently turquoise-hued lake. I gaze at the Alps in the distance, plan a stroll by the shore, and wonder why I’ve never before considered Switzerland’s largest city as a summer destination.
Zürich Tourism
Because not only does it have everything I look for in a holiday – walkable with fantastic museums, restaurants and art galleries; pretty, with an historic old town; a short flight from London (under 2 hours) – it also has an abundance of amazing swimming spots (many free) and offers paddle boarding, pedaloes, boat trips and inflatable dingy hire for a float along the River Limmat.
As someone who wants to swim the second I arrive anywhere, I drop my suitcase at the hotel – Hotel Seehof – and head straight to the lake, a two-minute walk away.
Although I can take a dip here (there are numerous spots that anyone can access), I’m keen to visit one of the public baths – badi – that are so beloved by the Swiss.
Zürich Tourism
I try Seebad Utoquai first – a wooden structure, dating from 1890, with diving boards, stairs into the water and rafts to swim out to.
Like all the badi, it’s not only somewhere to swim; the Swiss come here to eat and drink, meet friends and relax. And all for CHF8.
Next, I head to Frauenbad Stadthausquai, another historic public bath (built in 1888). Also made of wood, it floats on the river just a ten-minute walk from my hotel.
Whilst it has the feel of a friendly private members’ club with women of all ages chatting and catching up before taking a plunge in the water, like the Seebad Utoquai, it’s very much a place you can enjoy solo.
Men are welcome in the evening when it’s transformed into a bar.
Zürich Tourism
The best of the public baths on the Limmat include Flussbad Oberer Letten – a short walk from Zürich main station – which has an incredible 400m stretch of water for swimmers; and Unterer Letten, Zürich's oldest bath on the river, where swimmers float downstream with the current.
Both of these purpose-built river baths offer diving boards and platforms for sunbathing and catching up with friends. Remarkably, they are also free.
Despite my love of swimming, one of my favourite activities in Zürich is a boat tour around the lake (I opt for a short lake trip of 90 minutes) where I take hundreds of photos of the water’s changing colours and come up with synonyms for blue.
Zürich Tourism
I also enjoy walks by the shore, where everyone seems to gravitate in the evening, not only to swim, although I do see a lot of swimmers wading into the water, but to eat al fresco, walk dogs, feed the swans, or head to the outdoor cinema with its huge screen that rises from the lake for a summer season of film.
If you can tear yourself away from the water, there’s a lot more to explore. Head to the old part of Zürich to wander the pretty maze-like streets (on both banks of the river), take in Chagall’s beautiful stained-glass windows at Fraumünster Church, and climb up the hill to Lindenhof, a leafy park with great views over the city.
Zürich Tourism
If you’re looking for more panoramic vistas, you can hike up to Mountain Uetliberg – it takes 2 hours. Or take the tram close to the summit, as I do.
I also recommend visiting Zürich-West, where, following a river swim, you can explore this trendy, post-industrial locale whose old factories and warehouses have been transformed into restaurants, concert halls and rehearsal spaces for opera and theatre companies.
Whilst Zürich can be expensive to eat out, drinks are no more costly than they are in London. I think the best way to do it is to have picnic lunches by the water, saving the restaurants for dinner.
Zürich Tourism
I keep returning to Tibits for their delicious and expansive vegetarian and vegan buffet (pay by weight), and eat so much at Haus Hiltl (the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant), including the most amazing vegan mille feuille (best dessert ever), I’m not sure I won’t sink to the bottom of the lake on my last dip before heading to the airport.
Miraculously, I manage to stay buoyant, and as I swim through the now navy-coloured water, marvelling once again at the stunning views of the Alps, I’m already planning my return.
Deana was a guest of Zürich Tourism and stayed at Hotel Seehof: Seehof.ch. Rooms from £150 per night.
