Head to Aspen and Snowmass for a US vacation with a difference, says Deana Luchia, following a luxury stay in Colorado.
Aspen’s official slogan is ‘Defy Ordinary’ – an apt phrase for a truly extraordinary city that’s unlike anywhere else I’ve been to in the US.
With a year-round population of just 7,000 residents, Aspen is a high-altitude, luxurious destination in the middle of the Rocky Mountains – and whilst visitors (including Hollywood, tech and finance movers and shakers) throng here to ski (and be seen) during the winter months, it’s also very much a chic summertime destination with fine dining, designer boutiques (Gucci, Prada, Valentino are all here) and miles of hiking trails that offer unparalleled views of these snow-capped mountains.
Courtesy of Aspen Chamber Resort Association
I stayed at the recently opened and rather fabulous White Elephant hotel, on Main Street, and enjoyed exploring Aspen’s attractions on foot and by bicycle (available from the hotel), admiring the flower-filled streets and the 250+ protected Victorian homes and old miners' cabins – all stunning, most with porches housing a rocking or Adirondack chair.
I browsed in unusual shops, including Kemo Sabe, which sells high-end cowboy hats in every imaginable colour; the quirky Aspen Emporium, a cooperative selling jewellery, art and gifts made by local artists; and Susie’s Consignment Store where Aspen ladies drop off their fancy cast-offs for resale.
I also shopped for delicious organic peaches at the farmer’s market (every Saturday in summer; unbeatable for dog-spotting) and went on the Smuggling Mine Tour to find out how the late 19th-century silver rush shaped Aspen.
Courtesy of Aspen Chamber Resort Association
Whilst it is undeniably a luxe magnet for the wealthy (Red Mountain, an enclave a few minutes’ drive away, is nicknamed ‘Billionaires Mountain’ with properties around the $20-30 million mark), Aspen also draws nature lovers of all types and bank balances, who swap skis for hiking boots and hit the trails.
There are four mountains to explore – Aspen Mountain, Snowmass, Aspen Highlands and Buttermilk – with hundreds of miles of trails, for walkers of all levels.
If hiking uphill isn’t your thing, but stunning panoramas are, you can always take the gondola up Aspen Mountain (alighting at an altitude of around 3,400 metres) and take shorter walks around the summit, dine at the canteen-style restaurant (fab food; picture-postcard views), and, as I did, enjoy a classical concert, courtesy of the Aspen Music Festival and School, whilst you prepare for the descent.
Courtesy of Aspen Chamber Resort Association
After a day’s hiking, it’s time to explore Aspen’s food scene, which is fantastic whatever your diet. For Michelin-starred culinary delights, head to Bosq, where head chef/owner Barclay Dodge has created some impeccable tasting menus, including the vegan one I enjoyed.
The waiter, who hailed from the Peak District, was one of several people I spoke to who told me they’d come to Aspen decades ago expecting to stay for a few months, but could never bring themselves to leave. Lola 41° at White Elephant is another choice spot for fine dining, with amazing sushi; whilst Spring Café, an organic, vegetarian (and vegan) café, is a great place to grab a healthy lunch.
Courtesy of Aspen Chamber Resort Association
In the evening, Aspen is a lively town with plenty of bars (try Bad Harriet, a speakeasy hidden behind a secret door inside a jewellery shop), a great cultural scene (the Wheeler Opera House has year-round comedy, music and theatre), and concerts (I had a front row seat at the Paul JAS Center and saw the brilliant Delvon Lamarr).
Snowmass Village, around 9 miles from Aspen, is a fantastic family-friendly resort, with fun activities including the Snowmass Bike Park, which has over 25 miles of purpose-built downhill bike trails for children (and adults) of all skill levels. Whether you want to boost your confidence on gentler slopes or careen fearlessly down the advanced (double-black) trails, this is hard to beat for holiday fun. (All bike gear can be hired at the resort.)
Tamara Susa
You can also delight your family by taking a ride on the Breathtaker Alpine Coaster. As you’re in charge of the brakes, you decide whether you want to race or take a more sedate journey through the mountain’s Aspen, Fir and Spruce trees. As soon as I stepped off this coaster, I wanted to do it again. And faster.
As Snowmass Village is a ski-in/ski-out resort, gondolas provide quick access to these attractions, but you can also head a short distance out of town (a five-minute ride on a free shuttle bus) and catch The Snowmass Rodeo – held every week in summer – and watch real cowboys do their thing, or take an exhilarating off-road jeep tour with Blazing Adventures, exploring Aspen Mountain without having to hike one single step.
Bridget Crosby
One of my favourite activities was a guided walk with ACES (Aspen Center for Environmental Studies), a non-profit science education organisation that does brilliant twice-daily hikes from Snowmass Village.
I opted for the Wildflower Walk, and in addition to gorgeous flower-filled meadows, my enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide pointed out chipmunks, a snake, deer and tree trunks gnawed by beavers, and also explained why I shouldn’t be too scared about bears (more a threat to picnics than people in these parts) but might want to be wary of moose (they charge!).
I also learned that the beautiful Aspen groves that are in abundance on these mountains are not made up of individual trees at all, but are one large organism, connected underground.
Sam Ferguson
If you fancy a longer hike, then a trail that takes you to Maroon Bells – known as “the most photographed peaks in North America” – is an absolute must. You won’t know where to point your camera first.
The weather changes pretty frequently in this part of Colorado, so take waterproofs as well as sunscreen, water and food. I did this walk with a guide, but I also did some solo hikes around Snowmass and found that the trails are well signposted at every turn. They also feel safe – with plenty of other solo hikers (mostly women) cheerily saying hello as they powered past me at 7 am.
Whilst Snowmass welcomes families (there are also playgrounds and a Games Lounge) and is a hiker’s paradise, it doesn’t stint on luxury.
Courtesy of Aspen Chamber Resort Association
I stayed at the five-star (dog-friendly!) Viceroy Snowmass, which has a heated outdoor pool, hot tubs and beautiful views over the mountains and dined at several great restaurants (there’s something about all this mountain air that made me think constantly about food).
The breakfasts at the Viceroy were amazing (lots of avocados, fresh fruit and revitalising juices); Base Camp Bar & Grill served the freshest poke bowls; and I don’t remember ever eating better Japanese dishes than those I ate at Kenichi.
I can also heartily recommend the amazing margaritas at Slope & Hatch, but be warned, at these altitudes (Snowmass Village sits at 2,500 metres above sea level) they pack a stronger punch than normal.
After one cocktail, my plan for a leisurely evening hike was abandoned for a much-needed nap by the pool.
Deana Luchia was a guest of Aspen Chamber Resort Association (ACRA) and Snowmass Tourism. She stayed at White Elephant in Aspen and Viceroy Snowmass.
For more information:
- Aspen: aspenchamber.org
- Snowmass Village: gosnowmass.com
- White Elephant: whiteelephant.com
- Viceroy Snowmass: viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/snowmass
