Who wants to stay in a hotel that looks like all the others? Samantha Laurie goes through the looking glass at Tarabel Lisbon...
Lisbon is one of Europe’s sunniest cities, with over 300 days of sunshine a year. Trust our luck then to be here for a weekend of heavy rain and storms. We’re busy scanning Google for museums, galleries, and indoor activities of any kind when the taxi pulls up at what is simply one of the most beautiful hotel lobbies I’ve ever seen.
Problem solved – we’ll hang here very happily for 72 hours, thank you.
Tarabel Lisbon
Tarabel Lisbon is an early 19th-century mansion in the quiet residential Lapa district, transformed into a boutique hotel after a top-to-toe renovation by French interior designer Rose Fournier. Having set up a sister hotel in Marrakesh, Rose moved to Lisbon six years ago, bringing with her a menagerie of antique treasures and flea market purchases acquired over the years.
Her theme for Tarabel was ‘summer garden’, and the light and plant-filled foyer exemplifies it perfectly: croisette armchairs, beautifully upholstered Victorian loveseats, tables laid with antique linen tablecloths and mismatched bone china, botanical art in glassless frames, all harnessed together with pink and green soft palette textiles, antique French rugs and oodles of objects d’arte and curios.
Tarabel Lisbon
Unlike many hotels where you can feel the designer’s ambition has been dampened by committee, here she’s very much in charge – a giant wooden birdcage stands in the centre of the lobby, a trompe d’oeuil replica of it bursts through the wall on the first floor, ghostly wooden sailing ships are painted – quite literally – into the paintwork. It’s a triumph of whimsy, elegance and fun.
Each of its nine rooms is different. Ours has a claw-foot bath with an intricate wooden trellis surround reminiscent of the Palace of Versailles. It’s not a coincidence – Rose commissioned the same traditional French treillage specialists who work on the Palace today.
“Detail is everything,” she tells me. “I am always thinking about how to surprise.”
Tarabel Lisbon
The restoration took four years – sorting out the electricity supply alone took a year, says general manager, Arnaud, with an Iberian sigh. Beyond the garden room is a lush terraced garden with a deep green pool – the water turned green during the long renovation work, and Rose liked the colour so much she had it retiled.
It’s a bit chilly to make full use of our enormous private terrace or the lovely pool gardens, but the sun does come out eventually – it’s Lisbon, of course. Lapa is a 30-minute walk from the centre. It’s hilly – as is everywhere in the city – but there are easy-to-use trams, and Uber here is still super cheap.
Tarabel Lisbon
We head to Alfama – famously the only part of Lisbon to survive the 18th-century earthquake that destroyed so much of the city and the best place to wander and soak up traditional comings and goings – and Belém, which turns out to have much more besides custard tarts to see and enjoy. Everywhere is brimming with amazing food. The gastro boom that began a decade ago has become an unstoppable force, with new restaurants opening almost weekly; many of the biggest names are relaxed bistros with top-notch food at reasonable prices.
But soon, we’re back at the Tarabel, enjoying afternoon tea served on French vintage crockery, relaxing on the sumptuous sofas and enjoying the views across the Tagus. Rarely have I wanted to spend so much time IN the hotel on a weekend break.
1 of 3
Samantha Laurie
2 of 3
Samantha Laurie
3 of 3
Samantha Laurie
Where to eat?
- O Canalha opened in 2023 to rave reviews and is still the talk of the town. Chef João Rodrigues is all about simple, quality sharing food, served in a hugely appealing, bustling bistro-style restaurant in Belém. Signature dishes such as open prawn omelette and grilled line-caught squid with sheep’s butter.
- Teimar restaurant is a buzzy fish hotspot with a very affordable menu in a less touristy part of town. Try the delicious fish tacos and tuna tartare with a glass of Vinho Verde
- Bustling Copo Largo has a selection of fabulous sharing plates, such as beef tongue with chickpeas and pennyroyal, pork with migas (a traditional bread-based dish), sarrabulho (a pork blood-based dish), and rice pudding.
B&B at Tarabel Lisbon costs from €500; tarabellisbon.com
