An elegant turn-of-the-century townhouse with gardens, spa, saltwater pool and Michelin-starred food in one of Europe’s most enjoyable cities
Is there anyone out there who hasn’t been won over by the charms of Portugal’s second city? Word has spread quickly - this year, Porto was shortlisted by Wanderlust as Europe’s most desirable city.
Its colourful historic centre, riverside setting, easy beach access and fast-growing gastro and arts reputation are all part of the package, but so too is its weathered grandeur.
Barely a stride from the centre are the dramatic crumbling facades of empty townhouses at odds with the gentrification around them.
Many were abandoned in the economic crisis of the 90s, which triggered a mass exodus from the city.
Some are now home to the city’s burgeoning art community, green shoots of innovative young creatives working from the former grand piles of the city’s previous residents; others are trapped in a cycle of decay.
Four years ago, one of its most magnificent grand dames – the family home of Portuguese man of culture Richard Severo – was saved from such a fate, painstakingly restored and transformed into a small, perfectly-formed boutique hotel.
Palacete Severo
Built in 1904 by architect, engineer and writer, Richard Severo for his Brazilian wife and filled with finds and styles from around the country in homage to his homeland, this elegant marble-pillared home was almost derelict when purchased by its new French owners, Géraldine Banier and husband Stéphane Sarré.
Palacete Severo
After a two-and-a-half-year overhaul, Severo’s “Little Palace” opened in October 2024 as a 20-room boutique hotel with top-notch facilities – two restaurants, a gym, spa, large peaceful garden and pool.
The hotel is located in the quiet business district of Boavista, close to the contemporary art galleries of Rua de Miguel Bombarda in the Cedofeita neighbourhood and an easy and enjoyable 30-minute walk from the centre.
Palacete Severo
First Impressions
It’s hard not to be wowed by the grand driveway sweeping up to the stone pillared entrance, but inside the vibe is still very much private home rather than hotel.
Carved wooden fireplaces, stained glass windows, hand-painted ceilings and sweeping stone staircases are offset with displays of striking modern artwork.
Owner Géraldine is a renowned art gallerist in Paris, and her vision is for the hotel to function as a living art space. A changing programme of temporary exhibitions is hosted around the entire building, the hallways, reception, bar, restaurant and even the bedrooms.
Palacete Severo
Local and international artists are invited to display, and this summer’s exhibition is a collection of work from a group of artists under the heading Una Pagina Aberta, or An Open Book.
It’s full of surprises – a series of photo-real paintings in the spa of a teenage boy at leisure look almost as if they are personal snaps. It’s a lovely reminder that this was once a family home.
Palacete Severo
The Rooms
There are 11 rooms in the heritage site, and nine more in an adjacent modern block in the former stables.
The older rooms are the most attractive with their high ceilings and intricate cornices.
Some have magnificent coffered wooden ceilings, stone balconies and small private gardens.
Palacete Severo
Each is hung with striking modern art.
Palacete Severo
The bathrooms are built into discreet modern ‘boxes’ to preserve the architectural elegance of the room.
Palacete Severo
The same sleek matt bronze and brushed gold tones echo through the modern rooms where we are staying.
The modern rooms are not as spacious or atmospheric as the heritage ones, but they're quiet and comfortable with soft lighting, shutters and heavy curtains creating a cocooning effect for deep sleep.
Palacete Severo
Food & Drink
Nothing puts a hotel on the map more quickly than a Michelin star.
Chef Tiago Bonito won a Michelin star for Éon, the hotel's fine dining restaurant in March last year, just a few months after it opened. His gastronomic tasting menus consists of nine or 14 ‘moments’ inspired by flavours from his childhood (€110/€165 depending on how many courses you choose) and this intimate 20-seater wood-panelled restaurant has attracted legions of fans.
It’s only open Wed to Sat evenings – and alas, we're visiting on the days it's closed.
Palacete Severo
Fortunately, chef Tiago is very much in charge of Bistrô Severo too, the hotel’s more casual all-day diner which has recently received a Michelin recommendation of its own.
Attractively located in the internal courtyard, now with a glass ceiling, its intricate floor and wall tiles and marble water feature have been carefully restored. Comfortable banquette seating and curved wooden spindle chairs are the perfect modern counterbalance.
The banquette design gives it an outward-facing feel, which makes which makes for a friendly conversational vibe between guests over breakfast.
Samantha Laurie
Breakfast is served Portuguese-style in the Bistrô with a selection of fruit, pastries, cheeses & meats brought to the table, and a choice of eggs, avocado toast & salmon on the menu.
It’s bright, light & cheerful – and delivered with a big Portuguese smile. Service throughout the hotel is excellent. Like the UK, the north of Portugal is famed for its friendliness and effusiveness, and the staff here could not be more welcoming.
But the real culinary surprise comes in the evening when we call in for dinner. The Bistrô has gained a strong local following – on the weekends it’s often fully booked. And we soon see why.
Samantha Laurie
We start with burrata with basil and pistachio pesto (€17), served with crispy golden wafers and a smoked salmon salad with herbs, avocados and toasted seeds (€18).
Both are perfectly done – simple, flavourful and beautifully served.
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Samantha Laurie
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Samantha Laurie
The quality of the kitchen shines through in the mains. Fish of the day is grouper, which comes with sautéed potatoes, green beans and white wine sauce (€32).
It’s absolutely delicious. As is the grilled tuna with coriander and lemon rice (€32).
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Samantha Laurie
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Samantha Laurie
We finish with The Chocolate – a white chocolate ganache with salted caramel and tonka bean – and Seasonal Strawberries with olive oil ice cream, two deceptively simply named and exquisitely plated delights.
Palacete Severo
The Gardens
It’s rare to have such a sizeable garden so close to the centre, and the new owners have made the most of it.
Rows of white roses & sweet honey-fragranced paniculata hydrangeas with their distinctive cone-shaped heads line the front of the building, wafting their scent over the stunning deep green sea water pool.
There are lots of shady spots to eat and drink around the garden. Quiet and peaceful, it’s an idyllic refuge after a day of walking and exploring.
Palacete Severo
The Spa
The ground floor of the former stable block is now a spa, with a salt room, Turkish steam room and therapy rooms.
We book in for one of the most popular guest treatments – the 90-minute Severo Signature, a cell-renewing facial & full body massage (€175).
Therapist Telma starts with a ritual pressing of hot towels and a deep relaxing massage, before applying a series of organic cleansing and moisturising from Olivier Claire, a luxury French natural skincare brand. It’s a blissful experience; it’s been a long time since I’ve been quite as relaxed.
Palacete Severo
Afterwards, we try the salt room – a 20 min session here is good for respiratory health and skin, says Telma – followed by the Turkish steam bath and a plunge in the outdoor seawater pool.
Samantha Laurie
What to see & do
There’s lots to see in the historic centre – Porto cathedral, the beautiful São Bento railway station, the historic UNESCO-listed Ribeira riverside, the Dom Luis bridge. On the far bank of the Douro river is Vila Nova de Gaia, famous for its historic Port wine cellars and stunning skyline views. There are port tours, wine tours, river tours and walking tours galore. But rather marvellously, Porto is also just a short hop from the beach.
We took a cheap Uber to Matosinhos, a coastal suburb famed for its surfing and seafood, and walked along the beach boardwalk back towards Porto, past the rocky city beaches and blue and white huts of Foz do Douro.
Heading in the opposite direction are a scattering of 'peregrinos' - pilgrims on the Camino Portuguese hiking up the coast towards Santiago de Compostela with their backpacks and walking sticks.
The cafes and bars along this string of tiny west-facing bays are perfect for stopping off and watching the sunset.
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Samantha Laurie
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Samantha Laurie
Where else to eat
Porto is heaving with young & vibrant places to eat, all very reasonably priced.
One of our favourites was Bacalhau, a small riverfront restaurant, a little further round the Douro and secluded from the busy riverside throng.
Further along the riverside we follow our noses to a smoky strip of traditional tasquinhas overlooking the harbour – small, bare-bones cantinas with outside charcoal grills with serving just one dish – fish of the day, with potatoes and veg for €10.
Packed with locals and buzzing with atmosphere, family-run gems like Tasquinha d'Ouro and Juventud d'Ouro are the kind of under-the-radar places you look for, but rarely find in a modern European city.
Such experiences make Porto feel like a discovery. We leave with a sense of a city poised between two worlds – go now before it changes!
Prices: B&B starts from €300 per room per night; palacetesevero.com/en
