Stephen Hughes
With gorgeous beaches, medieval citadels and hiking trails galore, Corsica has something for everyone. Fiona Adams dips down into the south...
There is something quite magical about slipping into the cool waters of your own swimming pool early in the day. The sun is up, but not yet scorching, and peace reigns all around.
If the pool should happen to be in Corsica, it’s more than likely that you will also have a spectacular view to contemplate while you swim – the granite mountains that dominate the island interior, perhaps, or calm sandy beaches lapped by gentle waves. Or possibly both, as was the case for me on a recent trip to the south of this fascinating place.
Corsica is perhaps best known as the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte; who, before he became hell-bent on conquering Europe, was a passionate supporter of Corsican independence. Set between the Côte d’Azur to the north and Sardinia to the south, France’s largest island was ruled by Genoa for 500 years until the mid-18th century, whereupon it enjoyed a brief moment as a self-governing republic before the French arrived in 1769.
Today its independent streak is still visible on many of the street signs, which are written in both French and the local phonetic dialect – although very often the French version is spray-painted out in protest. However, don’t let this rebellious spirit put you off: Corsica is a peaceful, verdant jewel of an isle with plenty on offer for all kinds and ages of traveller.
Stephen Hughes
We went en famille in early September, when the searing peak of summer had passed and the bulk of tourists had ebbed away. Our villa – home of the pool with a view – was in the tiny village of Petra Longa Salvini, about half an hour’s drive from the island’s southern airport of Figari.
Up there in the hills above the tranquil bay of Santa Giulia, we found ourselves between the gorgeous medieval town of Bonifacio – think coral coloured houses teetering atop vertiginous cliffs – and sophisticated, split-level Porto-Vecchio, where yachts jostle for space and restaurants and shops nestle cheek by jowl up in the old town’s narrow streets.
The citadel of Bonifacio, on the southernmost tip of Corsica facing the Italian island of Sardinia, is a magnet for tourists and the roads that lead to it are easily blocked. Head there early, however, and you can enjoy a coffee overlooking the sea and climb the steep walkway to the old town in relative comfort. There are buses that can take you to the top, but where’s the fun in that?
Once at the Haute Ville, you can explore a labyrinthine collection of streets, see the churches of Sainte-Marie-Majeure and Saint-Dominique – the latter complete with uniquely structured bell tower – and climb down and back up the fabulous Escalier du Roi d’Aragon.
Situated on the west side, this is a steep stairway cut into the rock of the cliffs. Local legend has it that the 187 steps were hewn in just one night during the Aragonese siege of 1420. Ascending, in particular, is not for the timorous, the pregnant or those with a heart condition, but for anyone else it is worth burning agony of thigh for the views over the churning water and the sheer spectacle of the construction. And when you regain the summit, grinning manically with the relief of survival, a wealth of cafés, bars and gelaterias (try Rocca Serra) await.
Porto-Vecchio has a stylish feel – think Saint-Tropez without the crushing prices – with nightlife to keep older teenagers happy. There is a variety of restaurants, some offering the local speciality of sanglier (wild boar), plus a weekly food market and the remains of Genoese fortifications.
Like Bonifacio it is two-tiered, but the gentle climb to the upper level is a relative walk in the park. Charming, bright and shiny with yachts and happy holidaymakers, it’s ideal after a sojourn on one of the stunning nearby sandy beaches, while for supermarket aficionados there is a further delight: a huge E.Leclerc.
Corsica is also blessed with a rocky, mountainous interior that is a hit with the more intrepid tourist. Walkers flock to complete the GR20 – the Grand Randonnée hiking trail – which goes from Calenzana in the north of the island to Conca in the south. It is around 200km of Alpine terrain over Corsica’s granite peaks and considered one of the toughest long-distance trails in the world.
With only a week to spare, and two teenagers in tow, we gave it a miss. Instead we drove a spectacular route from Porto-Vecchio to the waterfalls of Piscia di Gallo, near Ospedale, via the hill-top towns of Zonza (where the Sultan of Morocco was exiled in 1953) and Sartène. With houses teetering precariously on rocks and a road with more hairpin bends than a James Bond opening sequence, it is utterly breathtaking.
From Ospedale, it was a 90-minute walk over mixed terrain, some of it rocky, to the waterfall, but aside from the final descent, which is steep, children, pensioners and dogs all managed quite well.
And the day ended as it had begun: with a quick dip in the pool. Lazily backstroking through the water, the sun gradually melting from the sky. Quite magical.
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Fiona travelled to Corsica with Simpson Travel (020 8003 6516; simpsontravel.com) who offer a range of villas throughout the island. She stayed at Alzitella. Prices for a week there start at £612pp, based on six people travelling in May 2019, including accommodation, flights from London Heathrow to Figari and car hire.