Tweakments are growing faster than ever, with a broader range of treatments on offer. But more knowledge is key to staying safe, finds Susie Millar...
At a glance, any industry survey will reveal that the scale of the UK aesthetics market is staggering. In its latest report, the British College of Aesthetic Medicine estimates that 13% of the population has had a non-surgical cosmetic procedure, with demand expected to double in the near future.
A new generation of regenerative collagen-boosting treatments – more affordable, less invasive and safer – and an ever-younger demographic combine to fuel an appetite worth £2.3 billion a year.
Yet the market remains poorly regulated. Only this year, 28 people in the North East contracted botulism from fake Botox injections. Tighter regulation is promised, but there are still three non-regulated providers for every regulated provider – i.e., a nurse, doctor, or dentist.
More openness and a better understanding of safety, cost and value for money is essential, believes Dr Raj Dhillon, a qualified GP, aesthetics trainer and founder of Esher’s Revital Lab. Here are his top tips for staying informed and making wise choices.
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Botox
- Cost is typically from £250 to £450
Botox remains one of the most effective aesthetic tools. With a good understanding of anatomy and placement, an experienced practitioner can achieve a natural ‘rested and refreshed’ look. Results are visible within a few days and typically last three to four months. Treatments are quick, relatively painless and with minimal downtime and risk.
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Dermal fillers
- Cost is typically from £250 to £350 per 1ml
Made of hyaluronic acid – a substance naturally found in the skin – derma fillers have received a lot of negative attention, largely due to the rising number of unnatural-looking faces they produce. However, in skilled hands, they can restore lost volume to the cheeks, temples, jawline and lips. Results are immediate and can last from 12-18 months, depending on the area treated and the product used.
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Biostimulators
- Cost is typically from £300 to £400 per session
There’s a noticeable shift happening in aesthetic medicine – from filling or freezing to regenerating the skin. Biostimulators work by stimulating your body’s own collagen and elastin production over time. This process leads to gradual improvements in skin texture and appearance, which can last for 18-24 months.
There are many treatments in this field for which people are making bold claims. Not all are evidence-based, but options such as Sculptra, Radiesse and Sunekos are scientifically backed and, in my experience, deliver solid results.
Biostimulators often require a course of treatments, and the effects are gradual, so they do call for some patience.
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Laser treatments
- Costs from £1,500
Lasers remain one of the most effective tools for skin resurfacing and pigmentation correction. They often require some significant downtime and can be very expensive, but are a good choice for those with deep wrinkles not responsive to injectable treatments, or for those with acne-related scarring.
Energy-based devices
- Cost can vary between £600 and £800
Ultrasound (such as HIFU or Ultherapy) and radiofrequency (like Morpheus8 or Secret RF) based treatments deliver energy deep into the skin or underlying tissues. They are often called ‘non-surgical facelifts’, but this kind of marketing is misleading – energy devices can improve skin texture, but they are not ‘lifting’ skin.
Safety first
- Ensure that you are seeing a medically trained professional – a doctor, dentist or nurse.
- Check the practitioner’s experience. The words ‘qualified’, ‘advanced’ and ‘insured’ mean nothing. Ask your practitioner how long he or she has been in the field and how many cases they have treated.
- As with most things, if something looks too cheap, there’s probably a reason. If a non-medical clinic is offering filler or Botox at unusually low prices, it almost always means that the products are of poor quality or, in some instances, fake.
Dr Raj
Dr Raj on skincare
A good skincare regimen should be relatively simple: cleanser, moisturiser and a non-negotiable SPF (even in winter), all of which are available over the counter.
There are serums that contain ingredients which are scientifically backed and worth incorporating into a skincare regimen. I recommend two of them:
- AlphaRet by Skinbetter Science is an advanced retinoid formulation that combines a retinoid with alpha hydroxy acid to reduce fine lines, improving texture and enhancing skin radiance with minimal irritation.
- CellDerma GF5 is a regenerative serum containing five biomimetic growth factors that stimulate collagen, elastin and skin cell renewal.
