Margaret Clancy goes in search of the perfect wines with which to pair autumnal foodie favourites like pumpkin and game
When I talk of autumn, I think of misty mornings, orange and red leaves falling from the trees, big coats and muddy boots. But autumn means more than that to others – I asked my daughter the other day – she mentioned bonfires, pumpkins. Chefs and gourmets will be thinking of the abundance of game that becomes increasingly available as the season goes on.
I wondered about matching wines to those culinary flavours, but wasn’t entirely sure where to start – pumpkin doesn’t have a lot of its own flavour, but gives back whatever it’s cooked with; some people think game has too much flavour, but when it’s cooked well, it deserves a proper pairing, so I had a chat with the clever chaps at Cellar Magneval in Fleet (they also have a branch in Woking), and asked for their recommendations.
I spoke to Andy Walton who thought about it and came up with some really interesting suggestions. I suggested that pumpkin was a bit bland but he had an answer for me “Big tannins would overwhelm pumpkin," he said, "what you need is something light and fruity but which is not too full bodied."
His answer was Baccaria Frappato, (£9.50) from a little supplier in Sicily – not a grape variety I had ever tasted before, but then small suppliers of interesting wines is what Magneval specializes in. It’s a lovely rich red colour, with plenty of sweet berry flavours, which actually brings out the best in pumpkin when I try them together. Other suggestions are a Dolcetto D’Alba Riverdito from Piedmont (£15.50), which is silkier and smarter, or something light from Beaujolais.
When I talk to him about game, he splits it into two subjects. “There are the birds [pheasants, partridge etc]”, he says “and the meats [venison, hare, rabbit] and they each call for something different”.
Cellar Magneval in Woking
He comments that smart white burgundies are good with birds, but I steer him back to reds – the rich colour somehow seems more appropriate to the season, and besides, smart white burgundies are somewhat out of reach. “A simple Mercurey – Domaine Vincent Dureuil – Ganthial (£25.70) is an elegant choice. It’s well behaved, and even though it seems pricey, it’s very good value because it’s from a lesser known supplier, he assures me.
I remember that pheasants are inexpensive fodder these days, and look for something a bit more budget-friendly. Again from a small, independent winery he recommends Humberto Canale from Patagonia at a much more palatable £14.
“It’s a deceptive wine," he states, ”coming from a cool climate similar to Burgundy, but on the other side of the wold. Pinot Noir loves this climate, but it’s less rich and farmyardy than its French equivalent.” But at 14% alcohol it packs its own punch.
For the meats, Andy’s best solution is a traditional one with a twist: a Syrah from Northern Rhone: Sensation du Nord from Patrick Christophe Bonneford - £17.10. “It’s from a Cote Rotie producer, but from young vines so it’s not as beefy as the very grand big brother", he assures me, “but with all the traditional rustic characteristics, plenty of black pepper and subtle tannins.”
Thanks to Andy and Magneval Cellars, the autumn will be full of mellow fruitfulness in this house, but if you can’t make it to one of their stores, here are some recommendations that are easier to put your hands on.
For Pumpkin
Waitrose Beaujolais Villages - £7.49
Made by Georges Duboeuf, I really liked this wine – soft, juicy and undemanding, but happy to make friends with the pumpkin flavours.
Sainsbury Taste the Difference Beaujolais-Village - £5.50
Not quite as silky smooth as the Waitrose version, but with plenty of fruit and sweetness to compliment the pumpkin. A really good budget option.
Majestic Macon Rouge “Les Roches Rouges” 2015 – Louis Jadot - £11.99
A thoroughly reliable and quaffable – with pint noir as well as gamay grapes, it’s elegant and easy – it’ll cope with pumpkin soup to start and a little pheasant or partridge to follow, and cheese for afters.
Pheasant
Majestic Macon Rouge “Les Roches Rouges” 2015 – Louis Jadot - £11.99
See above
Cave de Tain Les Hauts de Pavières Crozes-Hermitage – Waitrose - £11.49
A classic Crozes, with plenty of blackberry notes, it could have been made expecially for pheasant.
Taste the Difference Barbera D’Asti 2015 – Sainsbury - £7
I actually planned this for the pumpkin, but I found that its dark berry flavour worked very well with game birds as well – and a venison stew. It’s a great price for this wine.
Game meats
Taste the Difference Barbera D’Asti 2015 – Sainsbury - £7
See above
Araldica Barbera d’Asti Superiore Piedmont – Waitrose - £8.99
Slightly more robust than the Sainsbury version, but a bit more expensive too. It has an appealing softness backed up by deep richness from the tannin.
Montepulicano D'Abruzzo 2015 Poggio Civetta – Majestic - £7.99
Gives an Italian slant to rich games meats – think ragu rather than braise, and this works perfectly
Taste the Difference Barolo 2012 – Sainsbury - £16
Yes, I know it’s more expensive, but this is rich and powerful, giving wine-cooked gamey meats a proper run for their money.
Check out another one of Margaret's wine pieces in our Wine Section
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You can learn more about Cellar Magenval at cellarmagneval.com
Please drink responsibly: drinkaware.co.uk
