Catherine Whyte enjoys a taste of New York at the recently opened Jackson + Rye on Guildford High Street
I am no stranger to American diner chain Jackson + Rye. The Richmond branch enjoys a privileged position overlooking the river just by London’s oldest bridge. Not only is it a really popular spot amongst locals for a smart dinner or a stylish brunch, it is The Big Man’s favourite – besotted as he is with the Buttermilk Fried Chicken and the Crispy Duck Salad.
It’s on the classy side – for a chain. The new Guildford branch (which opened on the High Street last week) remains true to style. Step through the set of double doors, and it’s as if you’ve apparated straight into a 1930s speakeasy in Brooklyn forever sequestered from the modern world.
This new opening heralds a new dawn for Jackson + Rye, which be opening a plateful of new eateries across the nation. The menus will be standardised across all branches come January and all will offer ribs prepared in the three new smokers.
So says the menu: “We rub the meat with a million and one spices and let them do their thing for a day or so. We then build a fire with British Oak in our bespoke smokers (Mimi, Mollie and Melody). The meat goes in and we let time, heat and smoke work their magic.”
Unfortunately, we didn’t read the menu properly when ordering and overlooked this nugget of information, so missed out. It mattered not. The Big Man loved his Fillet Steak, which he chose to have with the (quite delicious) green slaw and sweet potato fries. I normally avoid pasta when eating out (as it’s usually very dull) but on this occasion was drawn to the Ravioli Pasta, which was livened up with peas, mint and ricotta as well as new potatoes and green beans. I’d have it again, which is saying something.
What else is on the evening menu? Well, it should come as no surprise that there are burgers aplenty, as well as dishes from across the USA such as Cajun Spiced Swordfish, New England Chowder and Buffalo Chicken Wings. Vegetarians need not panic. The Truffle Mac and Cheese is hearty stuff while the Spiced Quinoa Burger is one of the better meat-free versions out there. There is also a solid selection of salads to enjoy either as starters or mains.
Other highlights include the popular brunch menu (served until 4.30pm at weekends) and the cocktails. I was wooed by the Love Child (a lychee-liscious version of a Porn Star Martini), while The Big Man demolished his classic Dark & Stormy.
Make no mistake, J+R is a novel alternative to the many chains out there and already a success. But, I do wonder what real New Yorkers would make of it. I’m guessing they’d think it’s a tad clichéd, y’know.
- Jackson + Rye, 219 High Street, Guildford. Go to: jacksonrye.com
Catherine's tasty titbits for the month
The Garden House, Beaverbrook, Leatherhead
The long-awaited (and controversial) remodelling of Cherkley Court into a luxury hotel and golf course is nearing completion. The gorgeous Garden House restaurant (above) – head chef Kaz Suzuki – is now open for business and looking just the part, with its romantic setting and Anglo-Italian fare (note: there’s a good menu for children, as well as a comprehensive breakfast menu). I’ll be off to wine and dine there soon, so watch this space for a full review.
- The Garden House, Beaverbrook. To reserve a table go to: beaverbrook.co.uk
Partisan artisanal cheesemonger and deli, Guildford
I expect that many of you will have already discovered this new independent on Chapel Street. Still, it’s definitely worth a mention.
You’ll find around 40 cheeses on offer, from the luxurious Stinking Bishop to local heroes such as Tunworth and Old Winchester, plus the Partisan favourite Wigmore: a Berkshire ewe’s milk brie style cheese. There are also weekly guest cheeses, plus fresh bread, charcuterie and fresh pesto direct from Genoa. Owners Owen Pillinger and Mike Leslie live locally.
“Guildford is clearly a town with a passion for quality food,” says Owen. “Surrey Hills Coffee and Corkage wine shop offer great options, which is really exciting, but the market is still very much dominated by chains.
“We love offering the people of Guildford delicious and authentic foods. We’re open to feedback too, to help us try and stock the items our customers really want.”
- 14a Chapel Street, Guildford. Go to: partisan-deli.co.uk
The Real Eating company Café and Kitchen at Montezuma’s, Kingston
A warm Surrey welcome to The Real Eating Company, which has partnered up with Kingston’s very own chocolate specialist Montezuma’s to run its café on the first floor. The “high quality British casual dining café” already has many successful outlets across the South-East, with ingredients sourced from trusted local suppliers.
Next time you go shopping, pop in for one of the cafe’s hearty breakfasts, or try the lush afternoon cream tea comprising home baked sultana scones and fabulously fruity jams – from a small supplier in Uckfield, East Sussex – served with a big pot of Barry’s Irish Tea!
- 1st Floor at Montezuma’s, 4 Fife Road, Kingston. Visit: real-eating.co.uk
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