Chamberlain’s of London is fishy and fabulous. Catherine Whyte sets her course for the City
I do love the City: traversing the narrow lanes like Harry and Hagrid on a mission to Ollivander Wands; chancing upon secret pubs where City folk, pints in hand, spill out into the alleyways; happening across hidden churches with steeples now dwarfed by a forest of giant towers. Starved of the natural light they once enjoyed, they seem in danger of choking to death. Thank goodness, however, they are made of stronger stuff.
Amongst this maze of history sits Leadenhall Market, its feet planted firmly in the 14th Century. The present, Victorian, wrought iron incarnation is a spellbinding sight: lofty arches rising above the crowds; elaborate decoration in reds and greens dazzling the eye; dragons sitting proudly atop the columns. Interestingly, it was designed by the same engineer who built both Spitalfields and Billingsgate.
All in all, a natural fit for Chamberlain’s, one of London’s best-known fish restaurants. Launched in 2001, it’s owned by Chamberlain and Thelwell, a renowned Billingsgate fish trader that supplies The Savoy and the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park.
You just know that the fish will be top-notch – and tonight, indeed, it was. Chef Andrew Jones certainly knows how to make the most of the ingredients on his doorstep. From the Japanese-inspired tuna sashimi amuse-bouche to the classic grilled fillet red mullet with (divine) mash potato, red onion, aubergine, olive and Merlot reduction, there was plenty about which to enthuse.
As a veg lover, I was glad to see heritage varieties of tomato and carrot, along with a starter of seasonal asparagus from the Wye Valley with walnut, crispy brioche and orange.
The hospitality was just as you’d expect from a busy restaurant used to clientele with cash to flash. Our maitre d’ ensured that the aperitifs, wine and liqueurs lapped at our lips all night, leaving us sated and – dare I say – three sheets to the wind.
For atmosphere go at lunchtime, when City slickers and tourists fill the four floors. Weekday evenings are calmer, as the crowds float away to suburbia. At any time though, Chamberlain’s is shipshape and Bristol fashion. Set sail for London now.
For more info go to chamberlainsoflondon.com
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