Paul Winch-Furness
The Ivy
The Ivy, 9-11 Hill St, Richmond TW9 1SX
I’ve been to The Ivy in town before and loved it. It’s hard not to - it’s a special spot steeped in Theatreland history and nostalgic glamour. When the Ivy Cafés started reproducing at quite a dramatic rate, I was concerned that the Ivy experience might lose some of its magic, so I was intrigued but slightly anxious to see what the new Ivy Café in Richmond has to offer…
Even before crossing the threshold it's obvious that the fit-out has been done very thoughtfully - the stylish green awnings and trademark harlequin stained glass doors are immediately reminiscent of The Ivy West Street and give a feeling that you are arriving somewhere rather special.
The sweeping onyx bar is adorned with crystal glassware, antique bronze mirrors and wood panelling give a sense of opulent luxury, whilst the brilliantly bold artworks and bright colours make it fresh and contemporary. Art deco inspired chandeliers and lamps ensure the large space feels intimate and elegant, and even the marble floor tiles are stunning. There’s no denying that this place has the wow factor.
We were greeted by a host of charming staff who quickly showed us to our cosy corner table. We sunk into a burnt orange leather banquette, admiring the Richmond-inspired artwork and the cocktail menu, of course.
Paul Winch-Furness Paul Winch-Furness / Photographer
The inimitable service for which The Ivy is renowned was immediate; our waitress was attentive but not overly so, and quickly popped over to offer us drinks and give us details of the two daily fish specials. A sommelier then joined us who, having studied our order, recommended a delicious bottle of Austrian white wine that we were invited to try and consequently loved.
To kick off proceedings we both had a Richmond Park Royale because, well, ‘when in Richmond…’ as they say. A truly delicious mixture of Briottet Rose liqueur, Sipsmith Sloe gin and hibiscus topped with Champagne arrived, beautifully presented with a single red rose petal balanced on top. To soak it up we tucked into some beautiful truffle arancini that were piping hot, nestled in a crisp white napkin carefully tucked into an elegant silver dish. Divine.
You can’t beat a good prawn cocktail, and so that is exactly what I opted for as my starter, the old fashioned elegance of the place somehow suiting this classic dish. It arrived, again beautifully presented, and was everything I hoped it would be. Plenty of fresh salty prawns, a good helping of tasty Marie Rose sauce and plenty of crisp iceberg lettuce to cut through it all. I could have done with a touch more avocado, however. The yellowfin tuna carpaccio was also a treat – the raw fish melted in the mouth, complemented beautifully by a spiced avocado sauce and a zingy lime crème fraîche.
Paul Winch-Furness
So far, so good. In great anticipation, we waited for our main courses. And waited. And waited. Again, the exceptional service prevailed and without having to ask we were offered an apology and a positive update on the status of our food. Our handsome dishes finally arrived, but sadly both a little on the cold side. A mix up in the kitchen perhaps, but after an extensive wait we couldn’t bear to send them back and in reality, it didn’t much matter because the flavours of the blackened cod fillet, which had been baked in banana leaf with a salty miso glaze, were absolutely delicious. The fish was well cooked and the yuzu mayonnaise was delightfully smooth and had a lovely sour, citrus tang.
The halibut, which was a special that day, was also very nice – I am not entirely sure that the Greek yoghurt and cucumber sauce worked, but it was reassuring to know that there is still some creativity in the kitchen despite the growing number of Ivy Cafés currently sweeping the nation.
Sadly the sides were disappointing – undercooked and unexciting peas and a dollop of stodgy, lukewarm mash that arrived rather ungraciously plonked on a plate. Onwards and upwards to dessert, we thought.
Paul Winch-Furness Paul Winch-Furness / Photographer
I am a complete sucker for any kind of food ‘theatre’ so I just had to order the melting Chocolate Bombe, and when I did our waitress squealed with delight. The dark shiny sphere arrived at the table and with great panache, she poured hot salted caramel sauce all over it; like magic the chocolate melted away, revealing lumps of honeycomb and a scoop of vanilla ice cream swimming in milk ‘foam’. It was a thrill to watch and incredibly decadent, but too sickly sweet for my liking. The Flourless Chocolate Cappuccino cake, however, was spot on; the rich, chocolately slice arrived warm, accompanied by a light and fluffy milk mousse and a small jug of sticky, coffee sauce. It was a triumph.
It’s fair to say that although the food wasn’t perfect, everything else was. The service was exceptional; friendly, informative and immaculately professional. The opulent, elegant surroundings, buzzy atmosphere and the stylish presentation of the food were all a delight and made for a meal that felt genuinely special. Any concerns that I had about The Ivy’s magic being lost along the way were quickly forgotten - Richmond has got it just right.
