Church Road
West London foodies despaired when the neighbourhood institution that was Sonny’s closed its doors this summer after an impressive 33 years on the high street.
In its place, renowned restauranteur Rebecca Mascarenhas and chef Phil Howard have opened modern British restaurant Church Road; the majority of the team have come from the hugely successful (and Michelin starred) Elystan Street in Chelsea, so needless to say expectations are high.
We visited on a wet and windy Wednesday evening and crossing the threshold felt like entering some kind of haven.
The efficient and charming general manager Alan Parry somehow sensed we’d had a long day and so wisely suggested a stiff drink in the chic bar area before sitting down.
I sank into a plush, grey velvet sofa and quickly unwound thanks to the chilled glass of champagne that promptly arrived. Soon it was time to eat.
From the middle to the back of the restaurant is the elegant, minimalist dining room; think pale textured wallpaper, modern light fittings and delicate asparagus ferns, and a beautiful roaring fireplace at its heart.
It’s contemporary and glamourous, yet ever so comfortable. We immediately felt at home, whilst simultaneously enjoying the sense that we were somewhere special – this, in my opinion, is the definition of expert hospitality.
A small wooden crate containing Church Road’s perfectly formed sourdough and a good bottle of reasonably-priced Viognier kept us more than satisfied whilst we perused the menu and basked in the warmth of the fire (I had to resist slipping my shoes off).
Head chef Sam Astley-Dean, who has come to Barnes from the Michelin starred kitchen of Elystan Street, focuses on British seasonal produce – local where available – some foraged, some farm-grown, some wild.
Hearty autumn and winter fare dominates, with dishes featuring MSC-certified line-caught and sustainably farmed fish and shellfish, as well as grass-fed, fully traceable free-range meat sourced from British farms with proven track records of meticulous animal husbandry.
To start, beautifully fresh smoked mackerel rillettes packed a punch, their delicious richness combined with sharp pickled cucumber, horseradish, lemon and dill – the epitome of a well-balanced dish.
However, it was the double-baked cheddar souffle that stole the show. Rich, fluffy, and oh so cheesy, it sat on a bed of melt-in-the-mouth leeks and mushrooms. Comforting, indulgent and completely delicious – it was quite simply the best soufflé I have ever had the pleasure of eating.
A tough act to follow, but the mains did not disappoint; particularly the whole chargrilled plaice, which fell off the bone and came with a beautiful brown butter and a smattering of chanterelles, capers, and satisfyingly crunchy potato crisps. Roasted prawns arrived beautifully charcoaled, with a refined, spice-filled masala sauce and soft aubergine, freshened by cucumber, yoghurt and radish.
Based on the success of the starters and mains, pudding was a must; we opted for the intriguing brown butter biscuit, which came slathered in salted caramel, perfectly caramelized roasted nuts, a good dollop of light and creamy malt ice cream, and a sprinkling of zingy lime zest. And yes, it was as good it sounds.
At 9 pm, gaggles of diners were still arriving, the fire was roaring, and the atmosphere was buzzing. All hail West London’s newest foodie destination!
The current closure of Hammersmith Bridge suddenly seems a little less inconvenient - who needs to go into town anymore?
Alongside the a la carte menu, a lighter lunch can also be enjoyed in the ‘Common Room’ – a large communal table by day, private dining room by night.
Also served Monday to Saturday at lunchtime and in the evening from 6pm to 7pm, is Church Road’s ‘Little Sprouts’ menu; a selection of vegetable-led dishes using produce that for some reason would have otherwise gone to waste; it might be as simple as an imperfect, ‘ugly’ vegetable or an undersized egg.
For every menu sold, £2 is donated to Little Sprouts – a local charity initiative that aims to teach nursery age children all about the value of planting and harvesting your own food.
At £22, not only is the menu good for the environment, good for the animals, and good for the kids, but it’s also good for your wallet.
Church Road may be slightly more expensive than its predecessor, but the quality has also ramped up several notches. The skill in both the kitchen and front of the house is enormous and whilst it may sit within the ‘fine fining’ bracket, it is by no means stuffy or formal – quite the opposite.
And even now, several days later, I am still thinking about that soufflé.
Church Road, 94 Church Road, Barnes, London SW13 0DQ, www.churchroadsw13.co.uk
