The Bear at Oxshott reopens with a new look and new menu.
OUR VERDICT
This historic 200-year-old giant on the main road through Oxshott is latest Young's pub in the area to get a major makeover. It's emerged with a tasteful mix of 'heritage cozy' interiors, a large glass-fronted dining extension, a spacious terraced garden and a new menu focused on classic British pub staples.
Having driven past hundreds of times en route to Gatwick and elsewhere, The Bear's big sunny front garden has always looked like an enticing oasis. Now restyled with an attractive mix of seating and dining areas, cushions, blankets, parasols and planters, it's a masterclass in kerb appeal.
Matt Austin
On an early sunny midweek evening, the garden is abuzz with young remote workers socialising in earnest and lots of mixed-generation family groups, with granny and little ones in tow. Most of the regulars are the well-heeled folk of the nearby Crown Estate and other leafy enclaves nearby.
Wary of traffic noise, we head to a table set back away from the road – but the noise is never more than a low growl.
Samantha Laurie
First impressions
The welcome sign sets the tone perfectly. “No waiting, no fuss – pick a table and make yourself at home.”
How much nicer is that than the usual snarly ‘wait here to be seated’? Well done, landlord Chris and his team, for spotting a way to change the vibe.
Assistant manager Dan is in charge when we visit. He’s super friendly and quick to bring drinks – a nice chilled G&T and a pint of Shere Drop from the local Surrey Hills Brewery.
The new look comes with a new emphasis on building community spirit, and Dan enthuses about the events and activities he and the team have initiated – kids' quiz nights, steak dinners, charity fundraising walks, and glass painting sessions. They’ve even brought in a bike maintenance team to attract the stream of passing Surrey Hills cyclists.
Matt Austin
What’s the vibe?
Big hats off to the designers. What was previously a private dining room is now a series of cosy, low-lit nooks with a mix of comfy sofas, armchairs, and tables and chairs. A beautiful herringbone floor brings the space together and gives it an air of collected heritage.
The pub dates back to 1816 – and the new design brings to life its coffered ceilings and exposed brickwork. So attractive is the decor, we're almost tempted to relocate inside – but summer is summer and Dan has some good woollen blankets at the ready should the garden get chilly,
Matt Austin
Matt Austin
What's the food like?
The menu is short and simple, featuring all the major pub classics - ribs, pies, sausage and mash, burgers and fish and chips - with some big meat and cheese sharing plates, like The Bear Board, a £32 fest of scotch eggs, sausage rolls, pork belly bites and more.
Starters include familiar favourites such as salt and pepper squid, Fowey mussels (not available today) and chicken and bacon croquettes, with a couple of interesting veggie options such as salt-baked beetroot with vegan feta and honey-roasted sweet potato with burrata, all priced between £8 and £10.
As a summer soup aficionado, I’m very happy to see pea and mint soup on the menu despite the soaring summer temperatures.
Samantha Laurie
Nevertheless, I can’t resist a prawn cocktail. This Bloody Mary mix of prawn and crayfish is nicely presented, perfectly seasoned, and generous. However, the big decorative prawn in the shell on top is dry and tasteless.
The portion sizes are large. My husband goes for mackerel pâté, a big tasty pot of well-balanced smoky fish, served with fennel salad and crusty bread.
Samantha Laurie
Prices are very reasonable, considering its location in the "UK's most expensive village".
Mains include chicken curry pie (£21), Jacob’s Ladder short rib (£29), rib-eye steak (£41), and the very popular Bear Burger (from £17.50, with lots of extra options for the super hungry).
Like most people, we’re eating less meat these days, so we go for the two fish dishes – cyder-based haddock and chips (£18.50), which come with mushy peas, tartare sauce and special antiquated spelling and Brixham sea bream with Jersey royals and tomato and broad bean salad (£23).
The haddock is battered with apples rather than beer, so it’s gluten-free, which is always good to hear.
However, the verdict from my husband is fair to middling. Too much batter, too little fish.
Samantha Laurie
My pan-seared Brixham sea bream (£23) gets a more positive reception. It’s fresh and nicely cooked. I swap out the crushed Jersey royals for triple-cooked chips (it’s been a long week) and tuck in.
Samantha Laurie
Generous portions throughout mean we have little space left, but we share a classic vanilla cheesecake with rhubarb glaze (£7).
Samantha Laurie
Verdict
Beautifully restored, great service, reasonably priced food. Definitely worth a visit for its gorgeous interiors and to enjoy the various community events the pub has planned.
