Sophie Farrah enjoys a summer lunch beneath the wisteria at Petersham Nurseries, where seasonal ingredients and Italian influences shine in a uniquely beautiful setting.
OUR VERDICT
Petersham Nurseries
First impressions
No matter how many times I visit Petersham Nurseries, it never fails to take my breath away. Crossing its threshold is like being transported to a horticultural haven that feels a million miles from modern life.
I arrived early for lunch so that I could wander among the antique statues, weathered pots and rows of picture-perfect plants and flowers, all so carefully - but seemingly effortlessly - arranged in the Petersham's chic signature style. Home to both a café and restaurant, each housed within a greenhouse overflowing with flora, the nursery invites exploration, so I made my way to the latter via the lifestyle shop.
Inside, wooden tables are laid beneath a canopy of bougainvillaea, tumbling vines and fragrant jasmine. The weather was on my side when I visited, and I was shown to a table outside, idyllically positioned beside a trickling fountain beneath a breath-taking canopy of scented wisteria. As I settled into my seat, surrounded by flowers and greenery, I could easily have been somewhere in rural Italy, rather than a few minutes from Richmond town centre.
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The menu
The menu only adds to the Mediterranean feel. Informed by Petersham’s own homegrown produce, it has a distinctly Italian influence, with dishes such as beef carpaccio, fresh pasta and pan-fried sea bream with puttanesca. It is seasonal and sophisticated in its simplicity, allowing beautiful ingredients to shine. Much of the organic, high-welfare meat, eggs and produce comes from Haye Farm in Devon, run by the son of the Nurseries’ founders.
Petersham Nurseries
The experience
A hot day called for one of the restaurant’s seasonal bellinis – a well-balanced strawberry version when I visited, sweet but not overly so and bursting with fresh strawberry flavour. It made an ideal accompaniment to a couple of appetisers: a simple bruschetta topped with creamy stracciatella and courgette, and a small pile of Cornish crab served in endive leaves. Both simple, but effective.
Starters were somewhat subtle in flavour. A very al dente spinach and ricotta tortellini with spring vegetables and black garlic hovered on the edge of being underwhelming. The British nettle risotto however, bursting with verdancy, delivered more oomph and interest, generously laced with preserved lemon and satisfying crunch thanks to toasted hazelnuts.
With the bellinis long gone, we moved on to a chilled bottle of Italian Sof Rosato, an elegant rosé brimming with fresh berries, wild strawberry and violets. Underpinned by a gentle savouriness, it's a perfect match for food.
My main, pan-fried sea bream, topped with a rich and gently spiced tomato puttanesca, was made for a hot summer's day. Laced with sun-drenched flavours, it was enhanced by salty sea purslane, zingy lemon and sweet, soft cherry tomatoes.
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The spiced Haye Farm chicken was similarly delicious, simply charred and served with purple sprouting broccoli, mint yoghurt and some very moreish pickled chillies.
Sides were a highlight: a beautifully fresh garden salad with a refreshing mustard vinaigrette and a generous bowl of sweet, sautéed cabbage, mixed with plenty of lemon and a punchy harissa - arguably a little too fiery for a side dish, but absolutely delicious nonetheless.
The exquisite, petal-strewn desserts were undoubtedly the triumph of the meal. A bowl of chocolate almond crumble, made with quality chocolate and with a wonderfully crumbly texture, was laced with just the right amount of salt. Topped with a scoop of silky coffee ice cream that packed a proper coffee hit, and served alongside a jug of thick, dark chocolate sauce, it was impossible to resist pouring over every last drop before diving in.
Tempted as I was by the salted caramel tart with buttermilk ice cream and/or the Yorkshire rhubarb sorbet, I ultimately chose the burnt Basque cheesecake and have zero regrets. It was exactly as it should be, with a caramelised, almost blackened top and an ultra-creamy custard centre, its richness cut through perfectly by fresh blood orange.
Petersham Nurseries
What we liked...
The setting is utterly magical and worth visiting for alone, especially in the summer months.
What we didn't...
Service felt a little brisk at times, but it was a very busy day.
Final thoughts
Any small shortcomings were easily outweighed by the setting, which remains one of the most enchanting places to dine in London. Petersham is a masterclass in atmosphere, and on a summer’s day there are few places I’d rather have lunch.
The bill, please
Arrival cocktail and four courses £95 (two courses £70, three courses £80).
Petersham Nurseries, Church Lane, Off Petersham Rd, Richmond, TW10 7AB. Book online at petershamnurseries.com.
