The Ivy Asia Guildford Has the Wow Factor | Review
I’d heard about the dramatic interiors and theatrical food presentation at the recently opened Ivy Asia Guildford, but would it be a matter of style over substance?
This shiny new opening is in Guildford’s sleek and modern Tunsgate Quarter, overlooking the town’s historic castle. It’s the fourth of the Ivy’s Asian openings, joining hugely successful sites in St Paul’s, Chelsea and Manchester (Mayfair, Brighton, Cardiff and Leeds are all coming soon…)
Koray Firat
First impressions
Open seven days a week for lunch, dinner, afternoon tea and weekend brunch, I visited for a mid-week early supper (wild, I know). When I arrived, nearly every table was occupied, and the live DJ was already busy spinning (gently) thumping tunes from her booth overlooking the glittering restaurant.
The atmosphere was great – everyone seemed very pleased to be there and there was an infectiously upbeat feel to the place, even at 6.30 pm on a Tuesday evening. Interiors-wise, there’s no denying that The Ivy Asia Guildford has the wow factor – the floor glows with bright pink and green slices of semi-precious crystal, the illuminated marble bar has a pagoda-style roof, and there are sumo wrestlers and samurai warriors around every corner.The centrepiece is a vast, life-size cherry tree, covered in bright pink blossom that hangs over tables of hungry diners.
It is all beautifully lit – huge uplit antique-style vases radiate drama, and the intimate glow of cute little table lamps all add to the sleek nightclub feel. My eyes widened like a child in a sweet shop at every glittering turn. Yes, it’s most definitely sensory overload, but in the best possible way...
The menu
Smartly dressed staff were genuinely friendly and efficient from the off. The Caramelised Pineapple Cooler wasn’t available, but our waiter was already primed with helpful ideas for substitutes, like the Homemade Yuzu Lemonade which was incredibly refreshing.
Menu wise, there’s a selection of small Asian plates, sushi and sashimi, as well as larger hot dishes and some house specialities. It’s a good but not exhaustive choice that would please most, with the addition of some very entertaining presentation…
BEN CARPENTER
The food
We went for a mixture of everything which was cleverly staggered by the kitchen without us having to ask. First up – the wonderfully chunky, steaming hot Popcorn Shrimp, which despite being covered in a wonderfully spicy and deliciously creamy sauce, still managed to keep its satisfying crispiness.
Next, the Tuna 3 Ways (£16.50); is the perfect introduction to the sushi and sashimi section encompassing three nigiri, three spicy rolls and a bowl of melt-in-the-mouth tartare with deep-fried seaweed crisps for scooping. The spicy rolls could have done with a little more heat, but other than that the dish was divine; the fish was beautifully fresh and the whole thing was impeccably presented. The spicy tuna and sesame roll (£8.95) again lacked heat for me, but was freshly made sushi at its best.
Ivy Asia
Ivy Asia London
Next came the Yellowtail Sashimi with Fresh Truffle Salad (£12.95); a recommendation from GM Mike that turned out to be the standout dish of the meal, if not my year so far. The paper-thin slices of yellowtail melted in the mouth, whilst the pungent earthy truffle cut through the highly moreish yuzu dressing. The flavours and textures were poetically good.
Another highlight was the Soft Shell Crab Bang Bang Salad (£11.95); an indulgent dish that packs a punch, made in the traditional style with heaps of cold, crispy, shredded salad, topped with great big hunks of soft shell crab generously covered in a mouth-wateringly good bang bang sauce, made with plenty of chilli, peanut and lime.
We finished with the Yasai Chahan (£13.75); a generous and hearty rice-filled clay pot, bursting with flavour thanks to plenty of deliciously umami glazed Japanese mushrooms, pops of fresh asparagus and a good helping of fragrant black truffle. The fat and juicy sesame-crusted prawn dumplings (£8.50), which come almost floating in a zingy ponzu dressing, also slipped down a treat.
BEN CARPENTER
The theatre
Whilst we very happily devoured our selection of delicious dishes, we watched, wide-eyed, as incredible looking things arrived at neighbouring tables; The Ivy Asia ‘Black Shell’ (£53.00) is just that – a colossal black seashell that almost engulfs a table for two, exquisitely decorated with a selection of jewel-like pieces of sushi and sashimi.
And for all you crispy duck lovers out there – The Ivy Asia’s version (£32.50 for two people) arrives at the table in the form of a towering golden duck, bellowing with dry ice, and carrying all the trimmings (cucumber, hoisin sauce etc) in hanging gold buckets.
A sweet ending
Finally, pudding; because who could resist the Sake Barrel Vanilla Crème Brûlée, which comes with its own miniature wooden hammer to ceremoniously smash through a sesame and sake tuile? It was a good vanilla crème brûlée too and certainly the largest I’ve ever had the pleasure of eating, and on the side, a small bowl of sweet plum jam to cut through its thick, rich creaminess.
We also tried the simply named ‘Sphere’ (£8.95) – a white chocolate ball that has warm caramel sauce theatrically poured over it at the table; the chocolate melts away to reveal vanilla ice cream, a heavenly passion fruit sauce and delectable yuzu foam. Verging on sickly sweet but actually completely delicious, I enjoyed every mouthful of its various textures, temperatures and flavours.
Final thoughts
There was then room for a Jing speciality tea and nothing else. As I sat and digested, I once again looked all around the room, trying to take it all in. What a place. I loved everything about our evening there. Much like its delicious food, eye-popping interiors and upbeat atmosphere, this new Ivy Asia is vibrant, fresh, and, above all else, good fun.
Open now at 23 Tunsgate, Guildford GU1 3QS, theivyasiaguildford.com
