Just because it’s (almost) summer, don’t simply reach for the prettiest, rosiest rosé. There’s so much more than colour to consider, says Margaret Clancy
As I write this, the blossoms gently bob in the breeze, while the trees are melodious with birdsong. Of course, when you read this, it may be a different matter, but I thought it worth painting the picture so that you’ll know why, with the promise of the months to come already in the air, I’ve turned my attention to those most summery and sunshiny of wines, the rosés.
Time was when rosés were a very minor part of the wine offering, but looking around the shelves today, I see a bewildering selection, so for help and advice I turned to Simon Newson of Whirly Wines in Wandsworth (22 Ritherdon Rd; whirlywine.co.uk).
“The British are just opening their eyes to rosés now,” he says. “People got used to drinking that deep-coloured sweetish Anjou rosé and they’re only just realizing that they’re not what these lovely pink wines are about.”
“The other thing that gets me,” he admits, “is that people buy rosé by its colour. They see the palest pink in their glass, and think that’s the way to choose them, but it’s not the colour, it’s what it tastes like that really counts.”
When asked for his selection Simon confides: “My palate has been influenced by the amazing wines that I came across in Australia – these wines have plenty to say for themselves, with lashings of strawberries and raspberries in the flavour, but they keep a dry finish.”
But in the lovely contradiction of a real enthusiast, Newson admits that all his current rosés are European.
L to R: Chateau D'Azur, Domaine de Tariquet, Casal Garcia & Chateau Pierrail
His first recommendation is Casal Garcia Vinho Verde Rose, Portugal; a little bit spritzy, it’s lovely and light, and at only 10% alcohol and £8.75 it’s (almost) guilt-free.
His next choice is a classic darker pink and as he says: “don’t judge a book by its colour. It’s full of lovely summer fruits – just delicious.” Try for yourself – Domaine de Tariquet, Côte de Gascogne 2015, weighing in at £10 a bottle.
From everyday drinking to something a bit classy. Simon’s paradoxically very pleased with the “almost onion skin’ colour of this next wine – Chateau Pierrail, Côte de Bordeaux 2015. It’s a top quality rosé from a small vineyard. This is one of his special finds and the price – at £13.20 – reflects it.
His top choice, though, is the pinnacle of summer drinking –Chateau D’Azur, ‘Le Jardin de Soleil’, Bandol Rosé 2015. It’s a really stunning rosé from Provence; it smells and tastes of the sun. At £19.50 per bottle it may be a step too far for many price wise, but if the sun is shining and the ice bucket is close to hand, this is a glass of Mediterranean sunshine at its best.
Simon imports all his wines which means his selections are going to be out of reach for some people, so I’ve cast the net a little wider and seen what’s available on the shelves elsewhere.
To Majestic first...
These are two lovely rosés that fit the bill, both full of fruit but with a good dry finish. Chill them down well.
Leon Perdigal Côtes du Rhone, £8.99. A pretty pink, with a fair hint of citrus in the fruity mix. Easy and undemanding to drink. I like it but not as much as the Domaine la Chautarde – Coteaux Varois en Provence, £8.99. The classic Provençal bottle makes me slightly nervous, but I really recommend the wine inside. It has a lovely peachy colour (sorry Simon) and is almost perfumed, but in a good way. Would be splendid with a light lunch, but would be equally good on its own.
Onwards to Waitrose ...
Waitrose Provence Rosé, £8.99
A classic rosé that tastes of summer and sunshine. There’s plenty of fruit there and a dry finish – it’s uncomplicated, but really pleasant drinking.
Mirabeau en Provence 2016, £9.99
Close to our hearts: set up and run by a family originally from South West London, and their rosé, slightly pinker than some of the others, is as good if not better than the French can manage on their own. Lovely as an aperitif in the sunshine or with a decent pasta or chicken dish – not that I’m biased or anything.
And finally from Sainsbury's...
Chapel Down English Rosé 2015, £11
Don’t dismiss English wine – this is an English rosé for an English rose. It’s a very different grape blend from the others and the resulting wine may have just as much fruit as theothers – but a slightly different selection – redcurrants maybe, rather than peaches and apricots. But it’s a wine to like and to be proud of.
Miraval 2016, Côtes de Provence, £18
OK, so it’s a little more expensive, but the bottle is very pretty, the colour is lovely and it’s highly desirable – “mise en bouteille” as they say – by Brangelina. Yes – it’s THAT wine, from THAT lovely estate in Provence. What can I say about it? It’s a class act: elegant, fresh and just what you need for a sunny evening.
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