Review: Upstairs at Trinity

Having been awarded a prestigious Bib Gourmand last year, Sophie Farrah heads Upstairs at Trinity to find out what all the fuss is about.

You might have heard about Trinity of late – Adam Byatt’s illustrious neighbourhood restaurant nestled in the heart of Clapham Old Town, which was awarded it’s very first Michelin star last year. This elevated standard of food (and it’s associated price tag…) is for most of us saved for very special occasions only but, unbeknownst to some, Trinity is also home to a less formal and more affordable dining experience, aptly named Upstairs at Trinity.

At ground level you will find the Michelin star, but head Upstairs and you will find a Bib Gourmand – a relatively new Michelin accolade that recognises good food at moderate prices. One of the many joys of this split level arrangement is that the top-notch seasonal produce that Adam is so passionate about is in fact shared across both floors; downstairs takes first pick for their fine dining dishes and the rest is then sent up a level. The quality, therefore, is of an incredibly high standard wherever you are sat but upstairs the prices are more affordable and the experience less formal. Either way you can’t go wrong, but for the purpose of this review - I am taking the stairs.

Upstairs at Trinity has a reputation for ‘casual dining in its finest form’ - and upon entering it certainly looks that way. The space is stylish and intimate, sophisticated but not at all stuffy. High wooden tables, chic grey chairs and hanging plants and foliage all catch the eye – colourful contemporary art adorns the walls and an impressive open kitchen island perfectly showcases the captivating theatre of professional cooking. Bowls of beautiful fresh produce are piled high on the counter, and the smells floating off the open grill immediately get my mouth watering. As luck would have it, super chef and proprietor Adam Byatt himself is in the kitchen tonight, and the regular chorus of ‘Yes Chef!’ is a constant and thrilling reminder that one is witnessing a very talented team in action.

We are greeted by Kai, whose knowledge and enthusiasm for the menu is not just impressive but also completely contagious. Before I know it we are tucking into a substantial portion of Smoked Marcona Almonds and a deliciously sweet yet sour Sicilian Negroni – because blood oranges are in season, of course.

Seasonality is a big deal Upstairs, and not just in a foodie buzz word way either – the menu changes every single day depending on what’s fresh and available, and rather than a formal a la carte offering it’s a selection of small plates that have been designed to share. The choice, however, is still as creative, refined and definitely as enticing as one would expect to find downstairs.

The first plate to arrive is the Beetroot Cured Salmon and Sea Slaw, which was almost too beautiful too eat; the flavour of the fish was delicate and the texture melt-in-the-mouth, pleasantly contrasted by the fresh and crunchy bed of salty slaw. Next up was a Linguine of Spiced Crab with Fried Bread and Basil that was gloriously indulgent. The gently spiced crab had been cooked down to a rich, creamy emulsion; the fresh basil cut through the heaviness and the deliciously oily al dente pasta was complimented by the crunch of the crisp, fried bread.

The Chicken Yakitori was flavoursome but just a touch on the fatty side; the accompanying ‘spiced dipping egg’ however, which arrived in a single yolk form wobbling on a plate and covered in various aromatic spices, was enough of a delicious distraction. The Deep Fried Artichokes were a crisp, tasty treat spritzed with fresh blood orange juice and served with a subtle Romesco Sauce.

For me, the real show stopper was the Cornish Fish Stew; a beautiful homage to the sea filled to the brim with a variety of fresh chargrilled fish, scallops and tender squid amongst other delights, all swimming in rich, saffron laced bouillabaisse that made my lips sticky in the best possible way. Finished with crisp croutons and creamy seaweed aioli, it is a dish that I would happily eat again and again.

The mere thought of pudding made me feel queasy but when the delightful Kai informed me that the Michelin Guide had in fact tweeted about the Salted Caramel Custard Tart following their visit, well, I had to didn’t I? And of course they were right; every silky smooth, sweet, buttery mouthful was heavenly.

By the end of our meal the kitchen was in full swing; the temperature in the room had most definitely risen and the once appetising smells coming from the open grill started to overpower…one of the large windows to the front was cracked open, and we took this as our cue to leave.

I left feeling as though I had spent a relaxed evening enjoying warm hospitality and delicious food in a friend’s stylish open plan kitchen - Adam Byatt’s in this case. I loved the informality of it, yet still the attention to detail was exceptional as was the service, the food and the value for money. As the saying goes – the only way is up.