Having undergone a major refurbishment at the end of last year, Sophie Farrah heads to Balham to discover the delights of The Devonshire
Chris Orange
The Devonshire, which dates back to 1832, has long been known as a proper pub. A boozer. The character of Boycie in Only Fools and Horses was inspired by a previous Devonshire landlord, and snooker legend Jimmy White began his career at one of the pub’s tables. Equipped with TV screens showing the football and rugby it has always attracted a lively crowd, but recently it has seriously upped its game, both in terms of decor and food.
Scurrying in on a cold February evening there’s definitely still a welcoming, cosy pub feel to the place, but amongst the now less imposing TV screens there are stylish copper light fittings and large, painted portraits hung on fashionably distressed walls, complimented by lovely worn wooden floors and an opulent old-fashioned mirrored bar. The result is a trendy yet traditional feel, making it a very appealing place to grab a pint of craft beer.
Chris Orange
We wander further through, skirting around the bar where we find the dedicated dining area at the back, which is obviously where a large part of the refurbishment budget has been spent. Separated from the rest of the pub by an impressive double-sided central fireplace, the dining room looks fresh and full of character and is a thoughtful display of old meets new. Large original skylights let in lots of lovely light, there are luxurious leather banquettes to sink in to, exposed brick walls and lush Farrow and Ball colours all offset by mismatched shabby chic furniture and rows of shelves filled with carefully placed lamps, potted plants, old Singer sewing machines and other vintage props, which although inauthentic are still rather charming and stylish.
I expected pub grub, but the menu is a pleasant and somewhat exciting surprise. Yes, there is a good choice of the familiar ‘pub classics’ on offer, but there are also dishes such as blackened seabream with sweetcorn fritter, spiced cream and sumac yoghurt, as well as Hampshire pheasant with beetroot and vanilla puree, walnut and sesame seed granola and pheasant leg croquette. In a pub!
Chris Orange
Hot smoked salmon, served with poached hens egg, kale pesto and kohlrabi remoudale
The staff were friendly and knowledgeable about both the food and the wine, and clearly proud of their sophisticated menu. We decided to go with their recommendations, which ticked nearly all the boxes…
To start we tried the intriguing Wensleydale, spinach, pine nut and egg yolk ‘brick’ – a sort of pastry box filled with yummy stuff. The flavours were good, but the pastry was disappointingly soggy, and overall a bit stodgy for a starter I felt. The Brixham crab and Lincolnshire poacher gratin with smashed minted peas however, was a dream. It arrived bubbling away and was delightfully creamy but not too rich, filled with plenty of crab meat and a satisfyingly cheesy crust.
The main courses did not disappoint either – far from it. I opted for the very on-trend hot smoked salmon, served with a perfectly cooked poached hens egg, kale pesto and kohlrabi remoudale, and I couldn’t fault it. The salmon was smoky and succulent and offset nicely but the crisp remoudale and tangy pesto. The generous portion of maple and thyme glazed beef short rib with celeriac remoulade and smoked smashed sweet potato was worthy of Fred Flinstone; it was huge, and the sweet, sticky meat literally fell off the bone.
Chris Orange
Maple and thyme glazed beef short rib with celeriac remoulade and smashed sweet potato
I was certain that I had no room for dessert until I saw the clementine burnt cream on the menu – an indulgent, velvety treat with flavours of fresh vanilla, sweet citrus and a delightfully sugary crunch.
The food may be at the top end of gastro pub prices, but it really is very good. Rather than feeling like you’re grabbing a bite at your local, the dining room at the Devonshire is more like a good restaurant, tucked away at the back of a smart-ish pub. The only drawback to our dinner was simply down to the floor plan; there is little that management can do about the large doors that lead directly off the dining room into the garden. Several times it was left open by hardy smokers - which on a cold and windy February evening was distractingly chilly, to say the least.
However, in the summer, with the vast skylights overhead and the doors flung open on a sunny day - it will be a completely different experience and I am sure that this is when the dining room will well and truly come into its own. And with a burger shack and outdoor bar (complete with under-seat heating) due to open in April, it seems there are yet more delights to be discovered at the Devonshire this year.
- For bookings visit devonshirebalham.co.uk
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